Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There are a few places locally, one of which had my suspension for over 5 weeks without touching it, I ended up sending them to QLD, back about a week later, and they have done just over a years work without any issues

Chris

There are a few places locally, one of which had my suspension for over 5 weeks without touching it, I ended up sending them to QLD, back about a week later, and they have done just over a years work without any issues

Chris

Yeah i figure it can't be too different to rebuilding motorbike shocks and plenty of places to that, but that QLD joint has the rep, so it sounds best to go with them.

Now i just have to wait for my stock suspension to get sent over from Mleb (i brought just about everything else with me damnit).

Well I was recommended by Trent at Autobarn to go to a place called Competition Conversion, they are near the coke factory, apparently JMS/D1 Garage send all there stuff there, but they had them for ages and didnt even look at them, shithouse really

The one in QLD is very good, allot of guys have had there sus rebuilt there with no drama's

Aust Post is quite cheap to send them up to, cost about $25 each way

For warranty sake, they like to do them as pairs

I'd get two done, see what they are like, as the price for each is the same if you do one or four

True, and postage isn't so exorbitant to needing worrying about saving on 2 trips versus 4. Thanks for the insight.
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...