Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey

im realli new to this site so it might have been talked about before but i was wondering if anybody might be able to help me out in the area of pricing... from experience or quotes or whatever! ive got a 95 r33 gts-t.... its my first car and i love it!!! (finally after driving mums 96 civic for 6mths!) i wanted to do some cheap mods to it to get it running into the 13s... similar to the other thread about getting a stock R33 into the 13s.... how much would it cost to get a 3inch cat-back exhaust?? and how much for a dump pipe?? is it really necessary to get one? this is the first turbo car ive had so i dont really know all that much but im enjoying learning from other posts... any help on other cheap mods would be greatly appreciated!!!!

thanks alot

fat

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73920-gts-t-mods/
Share on other sites

front pipe / dump pipe / hiflow cat / 3" turbo back probably $1400 ish?

the dump pipe and hiflow will give a good power upgrade as the stock system is pretty restrictive. other cheap mods,

apexi safc $400 untuned

cold air intake kit $200

some wider tyres 245's 255's. $400 each

pineapple kit $150

pod filter with cold air intake $80 pod only

boost controller (bleed or electronic). - bleed $50 - elec $250

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73920-gts-t-mods/#findComment-1357864
Share on other sites

hey guys

thanks alot for the help, it should come in handy when i have the resources! as for the handling part of it.... what would you recommend i do there?? i have no ideas at all!!!

and yeah its true that things can get ugly quickly... i want it to be quick but know that it is.... not show it off to everyone if you know what i mean.... i want to be able to take it out to the strip every now and then..... so yeah! but it is an awesome car and im loving it!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73920-gts-t-mods/#findComment-1360278
Share on other sites

see any good local suspension shop, pedders, whiteline, i know bowers down here in newy all do good work

suss out some local guys, also if u intend to mod up nicely in the future find a good local workshop and STICK WITH THEM, theres nothing more valuable then having a good workshop which will help u out when u r in need.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73920-gts-t-mods/#findComment-1360797
Share on other sites

yeah sounds good to me

does anyone happen to know of any good workshops in the hornsby area?? once again ive got no clue!! haha im kinda getting used to that fact!! and what would i be getting done to improve the handling? i dont wanna rock up to a suspension shop and get ripped off or sound like a tool...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73920-gts-t-mods/#findComment-1361939
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...