Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

for te record....GTR was on pump fuel......i saw him fill up at the first servo in Liverpool with over 30 litres then when we did the fuel economy test he put 17 litres in.....thats three quarters of a tank

i also know the car was retuned for pump fuel in between autosalon and SCOTY comp . It was done at Croydon. if it was on C16 it would ahve made a lot more than 540kW @ wheels on the dyno!

Cars running race brakes were _ Supra, GTR, R34 GTR, Jerrys S15

all other cars had semi slicks too so all disadvantaged by not warming up

only Osmans and Blue S14 had street tyres combned with street spec brakes

Angus showed me the braking distance when we all left and mine was written down as the shortest......judged will be checking video footage of every car to see whn they topped

and by the way not having ABS you generally lock up under very hard brakes over the last coule of metres

and using the handbrake cos i had semi slick on the back obviously worked....wasnt so stupid afterall

so theres no need for bashing anyones car in the event anymore

article is out next month so we can see the points and the winner

we cn see how my car with standard turbo and $14,000 worth of mods goes against cars with $100,000 plus spent on them!

also the GTR didnt change anything

where the scremer pipe from the external wastegate comes down it has a movable flange that can either make the screamer pipe plumb back into the exhaust or vent to atmosphere....this is the reason it was so loud at the track and on the dyno but quiet on the street....also exhaust dB isnt done under load, its done in neautral with the car stationary so the wastegate doesnt open ....the GTR didnt get 88db it got 91 dB

onpy one car passed the exhaust dB with 88 an that was the BLue S14.....it has a screamer pipe too that is stupidly loud but under no loead it doesnt open so car is very quiet

no can we stop the bashing....im friends with all the competitiors there and it was heas of fun so lets keep posts as compliments now shall we

yellow GTR had R33 brembos not race brakes

the only people who complained about it were domenic and the blad dude from autostyle

the GTR was quiet because it had one of those silencer flaps that can be opened and closed from inside the car

i couldnt give a *** who your friends with i found everyone on the day to be great guys except the autostyle clowns

and ive been told it was much the same at last years event

anyway yes it was a fun day

and next year ill be entering my car

...and next year ill be entering my car

LOL. then is it wise to be slinging mud:)

This is about the only thing the Auto Salon gyts have got right...the car shows and Drag Combat is not my cup of tea, but could see this turning into a good competition, only they need to do rounds in states then finals etc...time will tell:)

i think you should back off a bit on the autostyle bashing also.

plenty of tuff cars have come out of autostlye that rip. i know of a couple of gtrs that have done 11's and 10s at wsid and have been to wakefield lapping in 1:10s with Street rubber.

as you say by invitation only. so only there huge hp cars got the invite.

it wouldnt take much of a brain to realise a 600kw gtr is not going to be too quick round wakefield...

i do agree with a load of the show ponies things, when do these cars hit the tracks etc etc. blah blah. but whatever. who cares.

good on all for having tuff cars and competing...

mick

dont worry from now on ill just say it to their faces its much more satisfying watching the tears well up in doms eyes LMAO

any top car from MC Racing will always get accepted he didnt even enter MR WRX he just wanted to go for a bit of fun and they asked if he wanted to enter

dont worry from now on ill just say it to their faces its much more satisfying watching the tears well up in doms eyes LMAO

any top car from MC Racing will always get accepted he didnt even enter MR WRX he just wanted to go for a bit of fun and they asked if he wanted to enter

I take it your a MC Racing fan....was it the black WRX he was racing...did it even have an interios/door trims etc. Id say good thinking if it didnt as its all kgs you dont have to carry around...but an interior would be nice on a street car:)

Anyway roll on next years comp, where hopefully the comp gets bigger and better but without too much d1ck swinging:)

im good mates with brian and he did the paint work on my car.

yea it was the Black MY03 he was racing

the rules were that u have to have interior system etc etc etc.

he had the full interior including the full boot install for the system

  • 1 month later...

If anyone doesn't understand the law of diminishing returns they need to read this thread. Very educational.

A GTP car can manage a 1:04 while the best these beasts can manage is a 1:08, right? Not bagging these great cars (1:08 is a fantastic time on street tyres in my opinion) it just shows the difference between power and handling. As I mentioned, no matter what the power, tyres make a huge difference and any car that can come up with a 1:08 on street tyres is doing bloody well. I'm impressed not just with the cars but especially the drivers. I'm guessing these big-HP monsters must really need to be driven with your tippy-toes, if you get my meaning.

If Brian manages a 1:04 with street tyres I'll be super impressed. Are R-Spec tyres (like D01J, Kumho V700 etc) considered street tyres?

I just read that most cars are running R-spec rubber. If that's the case then a 1:10 is pretty ordinary. Geez, even a Muppet like me can manage a 1:11.7 on real street tyres (not R-spec) in a lowly near-stock STi (around 170 kW ATW).

I shouldn't really comment-the sight of these show pieces shaking the ground at a proper race track with turns etc would be worth the price of admission alone.

I think it's great to see these cars in motion rather than on display.

...Ben

So i see the GTr won, is the mag worth buying/ a read ?

i have found ASM quite good in recent times, but i have to say appart form the SCOTY articles this issue was nothing special.

A GTP car can manage a 1:04 while the best these beasts can manage is a 1:08, right? Not bagging these great cars (1:08 is a fantastic time on street tyres in my opinion) it just shows the difference between power and handling. As I mentioned, no matter what the power, tyres make a huge difference and any car that can come up with a 1:08 on street tyres is doing bloody well. I'm impressed not just with the cars but especially the drivers. I'm guessing these big-HP monsters must really need to be driven with your tippy-toes, if you get my meaning.

If Brian manages a 1:04 with street tyres I'll be super impressed. Are R-Spec tyres (like D01J, Kumho V700 etc) considered street tyres?

Street legal R sepc rubber is considered street rubber:(

Im happy to be proven wrong but the WRX guy is dreaming if he think he can do a 1:04:) Its not just a single mod, but the synergy of all the mods. A friend didnt believe me when i said even with the biggest brakes in the world he wasnt going to stop that much quicker unless he did something about his suspension. I think he laughed at me, but last i heard now he has the brake upgrade he is off shopping for new susp.

I have followed King in his EVO around Wakefield, and down the straights and to a certain extent under brakes my car is about even. But as soon as he hits turn 3, well by the time we get back to the front straight its easy to see where he picks up so much time, its as simple as corner speed, i cant hope to keep pace, which you would expect. Pasrt of it is suspension up to the job, part of it is driving, all of it means he is way quicker:(

Anyway, any road car that gets under 1:10s is doing well at Wakefield as it must be a reasonably balanced car with reasonable grunt and pretty well driven.

I might go and buy the silly mag, at least it has prety girls:)

R-Spec rubber is not considered "street class" in the club motorsport series I run in. I guess the differentiation between R-Spec and "street rubber" (based on treadwear rating) is to keep costs down for people that can't afford to run gumballs that need replacing at very short intervals.

So in this competition R-Spec street legal rubber is considered "street rubber". Thanks for clarifying.

I agree with you about the 1:04 though. I'm a little sceptical and I look forward to seeing the results.

...Ben

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...