Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

mmmgtir..the other day me and the boys from Brotec Engineering where playing with my Gen 2 Brotec Xforce Xtreme II ecu / BOV combo and decided to see what we could push out project datto to. Your right, at first we had some huge engine temps but then we combined a water injection system with 32.1psi of boost and where shocked at the performance. The turbos still glow red under the high power output but according to the thermocouple we have welded to the snail they are running alot cooler.

We are running custom injectors however, they are 1250cc and we have to run a twin bosch pump feeling a custom surge tank which then gets feed onot a brotec special mechanical pump which sits off the alternator. (same as the gibon r32)

It was amazing, I think we are good for 9's with this new setup!!!

sounds nice mate. I'd love to check it out. I think there are gains to be had with even a touch more boost, possibly can drop the exhaust temp down a little further.

I have to admit I was maxing out my pump/injector combo until I switched of the pump fuel, needs a high koctane to function properly. big gains to be made in fuel choice.

I have heard some good reports on the brotec II and i may have to try one out once they are released for sale. perhaps I'll stop fooling with my FJ and put it on the GTR. one thing though, you may need to ream the orrifice of your fuel tank to install a bigger line to keep up with your 1250cc injectors.

I'm actually surprised more people don't utilise the gains available when pushing a turbo past it effeciencey range and then through to the 'zone'. I guess it comes down to lack of knowledge and not many engines built to handle that much thrusting.

edit: oops I've mispelt some words. please excuse, i type fast when i'm thinking direct to the pc.

Honestly dude the brotec is awesome.. I cant believe how easily its tuned and how nice it looks. yeah I think my fuel lines are way to small, we are going to punch a hole in the bottom of the main tank and put in a squiqqle drive style pump, they are noisy as hell but should push enough. Need to use something like a garden hose to get the fuel up front too!

It really makes sense to push the turbo more, I figure it must be simply more air means more cooling.. Exactly the same principal as your front mount intercooler. we have actually attached a twin thermo to the back of the intercooler too!! I think its crazy that more tuners dont push the turbo to the zone rating, thats where they reach their best performance.

]']wow people are hikacing my thread :rofl:

okay dumps and injectors and going to go in :P

wise choice.

sorry for the hi-jack.

Sly is right too, it's not really practical on a street car, as all that power is really unwanted for tootling down to the shops for a six-pack.

I have heard how you tootle down to the shops mr fuse

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
×
×
  • Create New...