Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My Mate has a R33 GTs-T.

He fitted a frontmount intercooler and piping.

And when he started the car he forgot to put to put water in the radiator.

And started the car and left it running for 30 sec, but reved it a few times.

He stoped it put water in it and started it again but it idled rough then it chugged till it stoped. And now when you try to start it, it sounds like its running on 1 cylinder.

Any 1 got any ideas???

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74424-r33-gts-t-fitted-frontmount/
Share on other sites

Sure it was your mate.. it's ok we've all done stupid things in the past :) j/k

Firstly, how long was the radiator running without water?

There is no need to remove the radiator water when mounting a cooler but anyway,

check all the connections and silicon hoses from the piping of the cooler.

I'll admit to my stupid moment.. I installed a front mount and piping, left the car warming up for a bit then took it for the first drive with the cooler, barely drove around the corner till I heard a huge BANG!/POP! then the car putted and stalled. I shitted myself and rolled it back into my drive way... found that I hadn't tightened one of the silicon hoses properly and it blew off. *Bows his head in shame*

All the hoses are tight and on properly now. but still when he turns the key it only seems to try to turn over while the key is turned on!!! less than a minute without water. Strait after the install he did have a cooler pipe not on properly!!! but turned it off as soon as he saw the rich smoke comming from the exhaust. He then plumbed it up properly and it went fine till he realized the water wasn't in the radiator, so he stopped it again, filled it and tried to start it again and thats when the not wanting to start thing happened!! could it be a sensor somwhere???

All the hoses are tight and on properly now. but still when he turns the key it only seems to try to turn over while the key is turned on!!!  less than a minute without water. Strait after the install he did have a cooler pipe not on properly!!! but turned it off as soon as he saw the rich smoke comming from the exhaust. He then plumbed it up properly and it went fine till he realized the water wasn't in the radiator, so he stopped it again, filled it and tried to start it again and thats when the not wanting to start thing happened!! could it be a sensor  somwhere???

i changed a clamp on a cooler pipe once. turns out as per story above i didn't tighten it up enough when i replaced the clamp

so down the highway and 'bang' off goes the pipe

it was a fair way home so i drove it running rich as hell

then car wouldn't hold revs :P

turned out that i had fouled the spark plugs... all i did was replace the spark plugs and worked fine :D

hope that's your soluion... (or your 'mates' solution)

Warren.

my suggestion would be to change the spark plugs or clean it ( you said it ran rich ) . I dont think the egine will over heat in less than a minute.

Make sure he hooks up the airflow meter ( i forgot when i did mine and i shat myself )

also one time i drove/limped 1k back home ( didnt realise front pipes had popped off and i had nfi )

if he up the boost and gets flatspots or boost cut, regap the spark plugs to .8mm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
    • It's TWO steering wheels actually. 😛 one for each hand They are wheels, and they steer!
    • Did you even watch the video? Its not a steering wheel. 
×
×
  • Create New...