Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys and gals,

just wondering what materials ppl used for making the outer case of their CAI partition for their pod filters, and also what material was used for insulation?

I was thinking of aluminium sheets for the box, and those silver sun shades for the insulation (the type that have air pockets to insulate).

If people have better suggestions (especially for the insulation) , and places I can get these things (Bunnings is absolutely crap, as I can never find anything I want there), I would appreciate that.

Thanks

Zahos

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7477-cai-partition-materials/
Share on other sites

Steve has hit the nail on the head.

Get your self some of that foam from Clarke Rubber.

For the metal stuff I used AluBond. Two 1mm sheets of aluminium seperated by 2-3mm of plastic/rubber. It has very good heat insulation properties.

But a single 3mm sheet of aluminium will work good too.

I found that mine did reduce the noise of the pod by about 30%. Your like me, I don't like it mega loud :D

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey ppl,

I'm still trying to find some aluminium sheeting, or alubond to make the partition with.......

I got the foil backed foam as meggala suggested, but I cant seem to find any1 that can help me with a rigid aluminium sheet....

I've been to several hardware stores, called several aluminuim places listed in the white pages, and no one can help me....

Is it just pure coincidence that I happened to ring all the knobs that cant help me, and completely missed all the ones that can????

Anyway, if someone could tell me where they got some from, it would be most appreciated.

Zahos

Originally posted by Zahos

Jay, what about the alubond stuff you mentioned. Where can I get that from?

I actually scabbed a bit from a mate.

They used the stuff to do office re-fits. The alubond stuff is used as the partitions between workstations !!!!

Tell you the truth, I have no idea where you can buy the stuff from :D

J

Originally posted by Henros

I have bought aluminium plates from Capral before. Their prices are not too bad, especially the offcuts.

Yeah, I'll get it cheaper anyhow....

A mate of mine is a cabinet maker, and buys aluminium from them for kickboards. He will get them through his company for me....

Thanks

Zahos

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...