Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys Iv'e got an rb26 engine, loom and computer and wanted to put it into an R33 Gtst that I can get my hands on for a cheap price.

Iv'e asked around a few workhops and they have all given me quotes of about $3000 for the conversion but after searching the forums I have seen that a few people have done this conversion but mainly R32's. So I was just wandering is there anyone that can direct me to someone who can carry out this conversion for me for a good price or can do a good DIY job for a reasonable price along with my help.

I'm looking to do this in about a months time if I can find someone to do it for me for a good price.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75002-rb26-into-33gtst-need-help/
Share on other sites

how much did you get the engine for if you don;t mind me asking?

also how old was it?

I guess you;ve done the maths but I thought it was cheaper to build up an rb25 with new parts than buy a second hand motor with parts that are generally 80k+ kms old.

I'm not bagging, I'd love nothing more than to have an RB26DETT in my car too but by the sounds of it you're looking for bang for buck.

Just curious as to how much it all costed or will cost to do the conversion and what sort of engine state (40,000ks? 100000ks?) you end up with afterwards.

Cheers

mate, if 3 grand is:

drop off car with RB25 in it and RB26 on a crate

drive away with RB26 in the car and running. RB25 on a crate

then it's not a bad price at all. considering you can probably get $1000-$2000 for your 25 then it's pretty good.

Godzilla, depending upon how complete the engine package is I'd suggest a little fudge in the quote.

So the sump on the 26 needs to be welded to cover the axle holes. There is an hour from sump off to sump on. While it is off get a decent sump baffle just in case you go to the track. Will cost a few hundred but may be worth it.

The loom needs to be fitted. 1-2 hours.

Engine swap. 6 hours in a dedicated workshop. AC and PS are the same so they can remain in.

Exhaust. Grab a $400ish front pipe off BATMBL as it will bolt straight up to a standard GTSt location in front of the cat. 1 hour to fit.

Now here is where the cost will come in. If you don't have all the turbo piping the fabrication time will cost a squillion. I spent ages fabricating for the TT conversion. If you can get the pipes it will bolt straight up in a couple of hours. Otherwise consider 12 hours gone at least.

IC to plenum pipe modification will have to be done as well. 1 hour.

Save some time and money by ensuring you have the AFMs and O2 sensors ready to go. Also any other little detail fittings that may speed the fitting and save bucks.

Negotiate an hourly rate and written itemised quote and you should see the cost plummet.

I estimate with all going well only 13 hours, which at 80 per hour will be $1040 plus parts.

Allow them to do all the fabrication and running around and the $3K is justified.

i have done the same conversion on my car, i would advise you to contact C&D motorworks 93127355.  

They did mine and i was very pleased with the job

yeah I have asked them they probably seem the best bet at the moment

how much did they charge you and what did it include?

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Just to liven up the thread. I just purchased an R33 GTS-t with an RB26 in it from Japan. I will be taking the engine out and putting it in my R33 Gts-t ---> http://www.allblitz.com.au/cars/japcars/95gtst7.html

Difference with my situation is, its coming on an R33 GTS-t, so its already got all the conversion parts read, just need to take off and replace.

Haven't called around for any quotes, but will give the boys at Rajab Racing a call and see what costs I'm looking at.

Should be interesting.

My current r33gtst is rb26DET, I did the coversion and engine build by myself. I'm fortunate to have a range of tools and accesories to do it with. Personally if you need to ask, then you simply don't have the experience to do this conversion. Try to budget around $5000 from a shop, as they will run into minor problems that will take hours to track down and 2 seconds to fix. I spent a total 3 months just sorting out parts, also I had to manufacture custom items to make the rb25 box secure to the rear of the rb26. Also there are sensors that needs to be replace or swap over, and the associated pipings as someone already mention.

At the end of the day it's a car with a difference, that'll bring smiles and brown undies when you step on it.

As for the sump. get a rb30 and mod that, it's easier or go a full custom job like I did. don't root around with the stock rb26 sump, they all leak after being weld shut.

Something to do with heat associate problems.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...