Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thanks guys, i'll get the hammers out tomorrow!

Please Picture Document this brake swap for us, I REALLY want to know how its done :(

i've only started on the drivers side so far so i'll take pics when i do the other side, they'll be from my phone so not the best pics

If you are using hammers on the tops of the joints, leave nuts on or you'll f*** the threads.

machg

what your saying is leave the bolts loose so the bit i'm trying to remove can move just enough to loosen but not dig into the threads...

Yeah the easiest way is to slug it with a hammer and loosen the tapered joint. As what's been said, put a nut on the thread to protect it so the hammer doesn't damage it. I always find it useful to also pull the arm down, usually comes out easier this way.

got it off thanks guys, might need to machine the s-13 hubs a hairs width to let them slide on a bit deeper just so i can tighten it enough to put the pin back in...

thanks guys..

Machine what to tighten up to what??? You've lost me :headspin:

Machine what to tighten up to what???  You've lost me  :headspin:

the steering arm bolt and the hole on the s-13 hub dont match, the hole is just to small to let it slide down enough to put the pin in place, i've threaded the nut trying to tighten it so i'll get it rethreaded or a new steering rack (need power steering anyway).

I think you will find that the s13 runs a tapered tie rod where the r30 runs a straight one. So they will need to be drilled out, I reamed mine for a nice tight fit.

it might be the other way round as the arm on the hub has just stopped, leaving about 3mm of thread showing...i might just get a grinder drill bit and trial and error it till it fits. i'll need a tap and die set too to fix the thread ;)

the best way to release the tire rod end from the stearing arm is this:

grab 2 hammers and swing the both athe the same time either side of the steeering arm... leving the nut on but loosely. you need to hit it with both hammers simultanisly in order to shock the taper locking the tire rod to steering arm, releasing the taper. may need a couple of hits, but this should do the trick. by leaving the nut on, its stops the tire rod end hittinfg the ground then you can undo the nut and remove the arm

i have done many a joint before and its worked a treat.... ( shown to me by my motor mechanic)........

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
×
×
  • Create New...