Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

What is the method you use for putting a 32GTR on a 2wd dyno.

Ive been told to have my 4WD system drained, tap into and "cut" the electronic line going to the resovor, Drop the front drive shaft and pull the fuse for the ADDESSA system.

My mechanic told me if i just simply "pull" the fuse there is a chance of SHREADDING either the gearbox or the transfer case or even the front diff!!

I would love everyones feedback on how they have been able to overcome tuning a GTR on a 2wd dyno!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75277-gtr-on-2wd-dyno/
Share on other sites

For short term, like a single power run, it's OK to pull the fuse.

If you are doing extended runs, like when tuning, then just drop the front shaft out (the one between the transfer case and front diff.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75277-gtr-on-2wd-dyno/#findComment-1381506
Share on other sites

It is fine to drive your GTR in RWD mode on the street.

However, on a 2WD dyno where your front wheels are stationary and can not move, you will burn out your clutch packs in the transfer case. Surest way to eliminate this problem is to break the connection in between the two = - Front driveshaft

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75277-gtr-on-2wd-dyno/#findComment-1387992
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
    • Shimmed or shimless, still solid, no hydraulic pump up stuff.
    • They have said food will be limited. Mainly meat pies and sausage rolls from memory. But they have a coffee van!
×
×
  • Create New...