Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There are a couple of things available.

The APEX'i RSM (Rev Speed Meter) will provide speed, revs, trip computer, battery voltage, 1/4mile, 0-100km/hr etc. I have one of these and they work well and look cool. They can also provide power figures if you have the additional g-sensors attached.

The other thing is called a "G-Tech", I think, and provides accurate details on 1/4mile, 0-100's etc.

I would think that most Jap tuning shops could provide you with either.

See'ya:burnout:

Lepperfish,

The benefit of the g-sensors is that they correct for wheelspin and provide a rough reading of power output. Although you can get readings of the g-forces exerted in each direction, but by themselves they don't provide much info.

See'ya:burnout:

I'd go for the RSM myself... only coz I have one :(

Blue screen, batt voltage and all the other stuff gtst-vspec mentioned. top product. I got mine for $360 :P no G-sensors yet.

you can monitor 4 channels of information aswell, all at once. batt, spead, trip, rev, all that kinda stuff...

and it's got the shift-lite functionality also.. I got a blue LED on the dash that the RSM controls. also has speed alert and a host of other goodies...

some people pay $400 for a tacho with shift light.. the rsm can do it all..

-K.

Most accurate is a Calitec, used to be made by a dude in Sydney I think. Gives 0-60, 0-80, 0-100, 60' with speed in MPH and KPH, 1/4 and speed in MPH and KPH, or you can program it to measure 1/8 mile. Also has two trip meters. Uses magnets on an undriven wheel, and has a G sensor. VERY accurate and repeatable. He was selling them for about $250, but couldn't compete against the Guess-tec and stopped making them. I've had one for about 5 years now and it's really helped me get consistant launches and ET's. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
×
×
  • Create New...