Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

These aren't the biggest turbo in terms of HP. I think they are rated at 320ps.

The advantage is they are ball bearing which means the RB25 will spool this very early.

With supporting mods you could probably pump out around 220rwkw. Though if you're going to the trouble of replacing the turbo you'll be asking yourself why you didn't pay the extra $500 and get something a little bigger.

Expect to pay upwards of $1200 ~ for a good condition example. Check to make sure if it comes with oil / water lines as this will set you back $100 or so plus intake modifications.

You don't need two threads to ask the same question.

If it's a turbo question then it's pretty obviously going to go in the Forced Induction section.

Also there is a shitload of info on here about this turbo and how it goes on an RB25. It's an old turbo.

A 2535 would be better suited to an RB25 but don't underestimate what a street weapon a 2530 RB25 will be. The first question that should be asked when upgrading turbo is what do you want to do with the car?

A 2540 is not often recommended.

Check out http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=55845

and do some more reading.

Oh, and have fun. ;)

Like everyone has stated, ask yourself what you're after in your car. If you're after big horsepower, don't go this turbo. I have a 2535 on mine and in my opinion, it's heaven on a stick. An RB25 with a 25XX turbo is going to give you a very quick response, with good power but don't expect to see the rwkw mark exceed much more than 250rwkw with a 25 series turbo. A 2530 would be lucky to even get there with 220rwkw about it's theoretical max. I currently make 220rwkw on just 12psi with my 2535, which is rated just a bit higher than the 2530.

For $1200, you can't go wrong if all you are chasing is around 200-220rwkw and a very responsive street car. As others have said, don't underestimate this turbo as it will certainly give your car a kick in the arse that will have you smiling every time ;) Best of luck mate.

With supporting mods the 450hp GCG rebuild wud go close, maybe 250-260rwkw is more likely though. Mind you its still damn responsive which is awsome, when you go past 250rwkw you tend to get abit more lag and that isnt the best on a street car.

Gotta say 16psi at 3,000rpm is pretty damn cool!! And if ur makin near on 300rwhp, well most would be pretty happy with that too.

if your chasing say 270rwkws what turbo is suitable. Ive read all the related threads posted by other members but got lost in the information. For examples sake, would a GCG turbo be capable?

seach button, and half the stickie threads in this section will answer that question for yous

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...