Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you double or tripple ground the battery in the boot so you get better grounding. you could actually go to jaycar get some good grounding cable and make em yourself, thats what i did.

as for noticable improvment, i noticed smoother acceleration...then again it could all just be in my head but for 20bucks or so who cares as long as it makes me fell good:D:D

according to asm article, they tested the hks earth grounding kit and apparently they achieved a slight gain at peak but lost more power in the midrange.

so apparently unless u get the kit for dirt cheap + have electrical issues + wanna tidy up the apperance of your engine bay your hard earned cash could be spent elsewhere

To me it doesnt make any sence .. your original earthing to your frame and engine should be more than enough to handle the amount of current coming from your engine and lights..

if everything was screwed up tight would neverbe more than .5 of an Ohm?

and unless your engine has a really really weak ass spark and your earth return wire is really stuffed and it has a high resistance causing a loss of current flow back to the battery it shouldnt do anything as is my understanding anyway

they do look heaps cool tho and even tho i dont belive in them i still want them for some reason ...

how much does the brandname kits cost? Maybe it would be a better choice just to get some spitfire coils if your having electrical issues...

Are there any autoleckys on this forum?... where are you leckies???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi GTSBoy, Excuse my ignorance but what does a "Bad" Knee point mean ? 
    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
×
×
  • Create New...