Jump to content
SAU Community

WHAT SHOULD I LOOK FOR IN a R32 GTR

TiNTiN
 Share

Recommended Posts

DJ984 Mentor

DJ984

Posted
Posted

look for rust in the sills and the rear wheel arches.

look for fading, rubbing and burning in the seats / interior

look to make sure any mods in the enginebay are done properly not a cheap-o solution... :P

run your finger down where any pannels join / where ther's a gap in panels (ie door to guards etc) and make sure the gap is flat and consistant :)

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted

Have a search - you will find a fair bit on this topic.

Engine bay:

Look for burnt paint (particularly on the intake manifold) & general signs of heat stress.

Look for service stickers on the airbox.

Ask if the timing belt has been changed. (Should be a sticker on the cover)

Interior

Be aware that alot of GT-R's have had their odometers tampered with. So have a good look at the interior & decide whether or not the wear is compatable with the claimed kms. Particularly look at the state of the steering wheel (be wary of aftermarket wheels) & the seat fabric, particularly around the bolster. If these are stuffed & the car is claiming <100,000kms, run.

Gearbox

Check for worn synchros (mostly third & fourth)

Brakes

Check the rotor thicknesses & the pad condition.

General

Make sure everything works.

Check the state of the panels & paint.

Stick your head underneath & check for damage from forklifts. (Most will have some)

Don't buy it because of shiney addons. Buy it if it is a good car.

Question the owner & find out whyhe bought it, how long he has had it & why he is selling it.

TiNTiN Collaborator

TiNTiN

Posted
  • Author
Posted
If you find a car your seriously interested in then take it to a workshop thats known for working on imports and get them to check it out

thats to much time and hassel for me to do somthing like that id prefer if i could check it through myself. i do know stuff about the RB26 but just looking if theres anything else i should check over when purchasing the car

Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted
thats to much time and hassel for me to do somthing like that id prefer if i could check it through myself. i do know stuff about the RB26 but just looking if theres anything else i should check over when purchasing the car

Id seriously consider taking it to one of the major workshops who have alot of hands on experience with GTR's. If its too much time and hassle to get a GTR checked out, dont buy one as its obvious you probably wont be able to maintain it because its "too much hassle".

Taking half a day of your time to get it properly and thouroghly checked out could save you $10,000+ in 1/2/6 months time.

JCMarshall_Law Proficient

JCMarshall_Law

Posted
Posted
thats to much time and hassel for me to do somthing like that id prefer if i could check it through myself. i do know stuff about the RB26 but just looking if theres anything else i should check over when purchasing the car

I'd say that is not a great call, R32 GTR's are generally "to much time and hassel" just owning one, so I would say you will save a LOT of "to much time and hassel" if you get a GTR checked out by a KNOWLEDGEABLE mechanic before you buy it.

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted
Id seriously consider taking it to one of the major workshops who have alot of hands on experience with GTR's. If its too much time and hassle to get a GTR checked out, dont buy one as its obvious you probably wont be able to maintain it because its "too much hassle".

Taking half a day of your time to get it properly and thouroghly checked out could save you $10,000+ in 1/2/6 months time.

It is worth getting an idea of what to look for - even if it is just to sort out the wheat from the chaff nbefore taking to a specialist & shelling out $100 or $200 dollars.

Things to look for are:

Burnt paint on the manifold - an RB26 that has had a hard life will have almost all the paint scorched off the induction manifold. One with an easier life will still have some missing.

Look for the usual oil leaks etc.

Look for dodgy/low rent/badly done engine mods. The Japanese are renowned for installing equipment & not tuning motors properly.

Ask if/where the car has been dynoed and/or serviced.

Check for a replacement cam belt (about a $500 job, so better if it has been done)

Check for service stickers on the airbox (if it still has one)

Talk to the owner & see if he actually knows what he is on about.

Also it is better if the plug cover is still on the motor - replacements are $600 ish from Nissan.

Check to see if the boost restrictor is still in and for EBC. If it is an old school boost controller chances are the motor has been running at higher boost for a while.

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted
Nothing pisses me off more than people ask for advice, they get given fantastic advice and decide to keep doing what they where going to do in the first place.

idiots.

(not talking about anyone in particular or anything..)

That is a bit harsh. The bloke is trying to find the best way of doing something, not looking to be told by others not to do it.

lang Collaborator

lang

Posted
Posted
Nothing pisses me off more than people ask for advice, they get given fantastic advice and decide to keep doing what they where going to do in the first place.

idiots.

(not talking about anyone in particular or anything..)

yes your completley right, but the way i look (in general terms with advice) at it is that people take your advice onboard as part of the collective information they use to decide what option is the right one for them. You shouldnt expect people to do what you say even if you know its the best way.

pentae Mentor

pentae

Posted
Posted

djr81: as I said, wasnt talking about the poster. He just REMINDED me of people like this.

lang: Agreed. But when you've got 5 experienced people sitting around who own these cars and know what their talking about and your too stupid to take it in, well you deserve a grilling, man.

Anyway, back on topic: The fact is if you dont take the car and get it checked out by an import/gtr specialist, or a decent mechanic, its really your own fault if you get burned!

:innocent:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nizzy_R34
      r34's love to squeal

      By Nizzy_R34 · Posted

      just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • Duncan
      Engine sputter

      By Duncan · Posted

      My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Duncan
      S1 Autech 260RS Wiring Diagrams

      By Duncan · Posted

      Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • Duncan
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By Duncan · Posted

      To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • GTSBoy
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...