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If i was to Put coilovers In Would i need to change calipers or can i keep the r30 hatch ones? Im worried about Loosing Front Grip with Coilovers In this Car Due to the Bumping in road Surface Might Cause Lost of traction :mellow:

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  • 4 months later...
ok If i use s13 coilovers and hubs is it needed to change the calipers to gtst items?

its up to you? the s-13 items are fine but changing to r32 gts-t items was one of the reasons for doing the swap..

Nut none the less it is still neccsary to get the B lines doen for the the S13 ones in the least correst you cant use the origanlas?

i thing your talking about the brake lines, remember the originals are 20 years old!! talk to a suspension place about the brake lines..

  • 10 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Ive been reading on the silvia forums and they do the 5 stud conversion by using s14 hubs and r33 ball joints,

has anyone here tried using these parts instead of s13 items?

i haven't looked to see if the rears can be re-drilled to 5stud, if so your set if not then you would be looking at getting new items milled or some sort of swap??

about $1000 for new billet rear hubs made....

How did you go with the ti rod ends...

CAN YOU DO A WRITE UP???

and some pics??

im interested too....

I copied everything mr rsx84 did in his initial write up, i used all s13 hubs discs and calipars so its still 4 stud.

Its all pretty straight forward, just a matter of taking old parts off and putting new ones on. When you come to

have a look i can show you.

i haven't looked to see if the rears can be re-drilled to 5stud, if so your set if not then you would be looking at getting new items milled or some sort of swap??

about $1000 for new billet rear hubs made....

How did you go with the ti rod ends...

I didn't do the 5 stud conversion just yet, just wanted to get coilovers in for now. Im gonna attack the rears before i

do the fronts for the 5 stud because the fronts would be easy, its the rears i havent explored enough yet. But from all

the work ive done on the car to date i know that nothing is impossible!!

My mate 'machined' the tie rod ends on the bench grinder until they matched the s13 items. Hes pretty handy on the

bench grinder, they fit snug and aren't loose. I thought of machining the hub side of it but then thought if i stuff the hubs

im in trouble but if i stuff the tie rod ends they're easier to replace.

Is a great write up by the way. It really is quite easy.

How did you go with the brake lines for the gtst calipars? I found the s13 items have exactly the same

fittings as the mr30 ones.

My mate 'machined' the tie rod ends on the bench grinder until they matched the s13 items. Hes pretty handy on the

bench grinder, they fit snug and aren't loose. I thought of machining the hub side of it but then thought if i stuff the hubs

im in trouble but if i stuff the tie rod ends they're easier to replace.

i got a set of s-13 tie rod ends here but the tread is reversed....

Did you use adj chamber tops from an s-13? they are backwards as well and don't alow much adjustment...

this conversion is so much easier in the r30 than in an r31....

the r32 4pots have the same fittings as well...

Edited by rsx84
i got a set of s-13 tie rod ends here but the tread is reversed....

Did you use adj chamber tops from an s-13? they are backwards as well and don't alow much adjustment...

this conversion is so much easier in the r30 than in an r31....

the r32 4pots have the same fittings as well...

I bought a set of s13 tie rod ends also, went to try and get them pressed into my r30 housings but pedders said no.

The machining has worked out fine so id recommend it to anyone with patience with a bench grinder.

yeah i used the adj camber tops but dont like em, i think the ones i have are a bit old and they are noisy as all hell.

And yeah they dont allow for much adjsutment, im trying to find some standard fixed tops.

so the 4 pots have the same fittings, good to know for the brake upgrade.

would i be able to bring a set of standard lower control arms around to your 'handy' mate???

what tie rod ends should i be looking out for???

im wanting to use stock items to get the roadworthy cert. , then maybe later on go the

KYB/GAB/Koni set-up

sounds like youve done some speccy stuff!!

i will confirm when im in your area.... wont be for a lil while yet.

would i be able to bring a set of standard lower control arms around to your 'handy' mate???

what tie rod ends should i be looking out for???

im wanting to use stock items to get the roadworthy cert. , then maybe later on go the

KYB/GAB/Koni set-up

sounds like youve done some speccy stuff!!

i will confirm when im in your area.... wont be for a lil while yet.

You don't need to modify the control arms, only the tie rod ends. My mate machined the tie rod ends on the bench

grinder to match the holes (close enough) to the s13 hubs. So you just need standard tie rod ends, unless you can

find a better way to get a solution for the tie rod ends.

When you say stock items do you mean r30 stuff or silvia stuff? Standard silvia struts do not fit in r30 shocker tunnels

just so you know. You need to use coilovers unless you want to modify the standard silvia struts which wouldnt be worth it.

ah ok...

i want to modify my stock lower control arms, as they are one piece and cant replace just the ball joints which are worn, making my steering very very soggy.

ive heard there is a way of getting the old ball joint off (angle grinder i guess) and drilling a new hole, then pressing in a new ball joint! (thats coming from my uncle, who is crazy...)

i guess i was getting thing all mixed up before...

ah ok...

i want to modify my stock lower control arms, as they are one piece and cant replace just the ball joints which are worn, making my steering very very soggy.

ive heard there is a way of getting the old ball joint off (angle grinder i guess) and drilling a new hole, then pressing in a new ball joint! (thats coming from my uncle, who is crazy...)

i guess i was getting thing all mixed up before...

speck to NOLTEC about your lower control arms as i think they do an exchange item, i have just had the ball joints in my r31 control arms replaced so i think the r30 items are the same??

the problem with the tie rod ends is the ball joint part is tapered for the s-13 and on the r30 there is no taper, its a cylinder not a cone shape..... you can't get the nut on enough to be able to put in the pin.... if you use a grinder (dremal something like that) to the under side of the hub hole, remove a small circle at a time, you will get it to a point where it will fit..... this is not a 5 min job take your time to get it right....

Edited by rsx84

isn't there a cheap way to do the hilux mod?

I have R31 GTS front struts and brakes in my HR30 but they are crap and far too expensive for parts because the rotors are a poofteenth bigger than the standard r31 units.

There has to be a real dodgy mix of parts that will combine to use the 4 pot hilux units and still retain the same stud pattern.

And yes the front of the car double acts as a road scraper with those struts.

isn't there a cheap way to do the hilux mod?

I have R31 GTS front struts and brakes in my HR30 but they are crap and far too expensive for parts because the rotors are a poofteenth bigger than the standard r31 units.

There has to be a real dodgy mix of parts that will combine to use the 4 pot hilux units and still retain the same stud pattern.

And yes the front of the car double acts as a road scraper with those struts.

to be honest if i was doing this again, knowing what i know now, i would have looked for a set of aus spec GTS front struts, rotors and calipars with the rear shocks and springs as well, the shocks can be rebuilt, the ride height is 40mm lower without effecting the shock travel at all and the GTS rotors are about 280mm from memory (standard aus spec items are 256mm) and the pad face is about 25% bigger than the standard r31 items...

Over the HR30 standard items i'd say your looking at a 40-50% braking increase, alot better suspension package as well if you add larger sway bars.....

all up i'd say no more than $1200 including the rebuilding of the shocks and sway bars, good $$$ considering 4 years ago i bought DBA slotted rotors for the HR30 for $700, Orange Koni's front incerts for $800 and new bendix comp X pads for $150 and the front and rear whiteline swaybars for $300, money well spend NOT, they are sitting in the boot of the car now after only travelling about 100km with them in.......

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