Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 GTR... battery change/strut brace

azaram

By azaram,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

azaram Apprentice

azaram

Posted
Posted

Hey... I've got a stupid question..

I need to replace my battery.. it's constantly losing charge after a week of not being used... only problem is that on the GTR the rear strut brace is in the way and you can't get the battery out.

So my question is.. can I remove it and replace it myself?

Is it hard to do?

My only concern is that its a structural support and by my thinking may cause the strut towers to shift a little if removed and make it impossible to put back on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75742-r33-gtr-battery-changestrut-brace/
Share on other sites
ferni Grand Master

ferni

Posted
Posted

Depending on the size of your battery you could slip it out above the strut brace.. i can get mine out/in like that (gotta tip it sideways)... if you have a bigger battery you'll have to take the strut brace off. Did it once, can't remembe rit being to hard - you'll be fine. Its to help stop the body flexing not to hold it in place. :(

clarkey Proficient

clarkey

Posted
Posted
Hey... I've got a stupid question..

I need to replace my battery.. it's constantly losing charge after a week of not being used... only problem is that on the GTR the rear strut brace is in the way and you can't get the battery out.

So my question is.. can I remove it and replace it myself?

Is it hard to do?

My only concern is that its a structural support and by my thinking may cause the strut towers to shift a little if removed and make it impossible to put back on.

I did mine mate and didnt have a problem.

Clarkey

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

Jesus Al, you been hiding? Best you be at the Sandown track day or the next club meeting for a catch up before I pi55 of to Qld. Probably leaving late July this stage.

I had a look today and the brace will come off easy as. Gotta be easier than trying to work around it. Even the GTSt is a biatch to work on back there.

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
Hey... I've got a stupid question..

I need to replace my battery.. it's constantly losing charge after a week of not being used... only problem is that on the GTR the rear strut brace is in the way and you can't get the battery out.

So my question is.. can I remove it and replace it myself?

Is it hard to do?

My only concern is that its a structural support and by my thinking may cause the strut towers to shift a little if removed and make it impossible to put back on.

Just undo the passengers side and loosen the drivers side mate .

When you change the battery just do it up again dont adjust the centre nut at all and it will be the same as before .

Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

Posted
Posted

Stolly,

I fitted a heavy duty battery to my R33 GTR a month or so ago, and despite looking a little tricky its an easy job.

Simply remove the single bolt on each side holding the rear brace in, then remove the battery clamp and prepare for a good half hour of leaning over and loosening off the battery terminals, as the others have said you need to use some care here, but essentially its a simply swap - out with the old, in with the new.

:rofl:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • patrickxdf12
      Squeaking clutch/throw out bearing

      By patrickxdf12 · Posted

      Hello!  i just finished manual swaping my r34 skyline with a r33 rb20de box(RB71C)box  When the car is running it squeaks crazy loud and it was smoking from the gearbox area. The gearbox is fine it was tested. The clutch slave cylinder seems like it doesn't fully releases the clutch. I want to ask if this noise is from the throw out bearing or could it be the clutch assembly or disk att.xFliq87Gzw6kImKBVqDebXkj0fBqymk0JaYeP3_3SlM.mp4
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Murray_Calavera
      WTAC 2025

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Ozdavroz
      WTAC 2025

      By Ozdavroz · Posted

      Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...