Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got a dodgy injector plug that tends to play up every so often.

The wiring loom injetor plug has split, water gets in and causes a bad connection.

Every now and again it gets hard to start and runs on 5cyls until its warm. ;)

Playing with the injector will instantly get it running on 6 again. ;)

Looking at the plug the contacts get corroded as all buggery. Clean it up and its all good again for another 6months. :)

It also tends to play up more often if I park the car on grass overnight.

Mine does that occasionly as well, I will have to check mine.....

I was about to say a collapsed ring in #3, then I read that you had it back up...

Unsure how you can "unstick" a sticky valve when jiggling the ignitor...but hey.

As for the low compression test, yes a stuck open valve WILL give a lower compression reading, a leak down test shoudl then be done to find out why.

As for why it now has compression of 120psi, I have NFI, sometimes they stick but I would be running a flush through it, RB20's have hydraulic lifters and as such it might be the cause the the stuck valve...I am only assuming cause I cannot hear it nor look at it...

boostn32...change yiur avatar, i keep seeing yous and thinking its an old thread as thats my old avatar:)    TP for my bunghole?

Bugger to hear about all the RB20 dramas the past week, hope it is just an electrical gremlin...and engine flush is cheap and easy, may not do anything, but then again?

I hope it is something electrical :wizard:

haha yeah i second that motion...i read that you blew a piston and first glance i though it was roy :)

*** FINALLY FIXED!! ***

Fuel pump rooted.. long version below :)

Finally fixed the damn thing.. After trying I don't know how many things. Narrowed it (properly) down to a fueling problem. So I started with replacing the fuel pressure reg and fuel filter (hmm, JECS orignal..lol) .. but after a 15 min drive discovered it wasn't either of those things.

So into the fuel tank I went. I installed a Walbro about 6 months ago - and that has been fine up until now. Checked wiring, and pump seating, appeared to be ok.. But, on checking over things closely, finally found the problem. Basically the Walbro supplied sock had crumbled (plastic - er great idea), and parts of itself appear to have sucked itself into the pump itself. It has some sort of foam stuff, but that also appears to have crumbled. A very bad design. After 6 months of use, that is inexcusable. I've always run good fuel, the tank was fairly clean, so I don't think it was anything else getting sucked in.

Now I am not *entirely* sure the sock is wholy the problem (but it wouldn't help).. and I think the pump may have slowly shat itself as well. I have noticed some irregular priming sounds when turning the key over occasionally. So I am also thinking that within about 6 months the brand new Walbro has gone dicky.

I knew that they were only good for about 250rwkw or so, but the long term reliability now I have some strong concerns about. My personal opinion is that *everybody* should stay clear of the Walbro pumps. It's not worth messing with, even if you may save $100 or so. Get a Bosch.

So back in went the stocker unit.. Car seems to pull a lot stronger now, and all issues gone. I'm going to be getting a BOSCH next time when i actually hit the stock pump limits. Learned my lesson.

I'm just glad it happened whilst my car is still running fairly mild power levels, and not once the bigger turbo was on - or it would have been goodbye rb20.

p.s. rb20det and rb25det seem to have the same fpr, even though they have different part numbers.

Yup :D sure good to have it all working fine again.. I had sort of discounted fuel pump because I thought "pretty new pump, should all be fine".. I even checked it quickly, but didn't pull the whole thing out to look over it fully :-s

I've taken a few photos, you can see some of the crumbly rubbish, even worse you can see it would have been clearly sucking it into the pump itself..

Think the fuel filter should have stopped most of it getting into the injectors and the engine itself. Thankfully!

I could do that I guess, but buying from another forum member (a while ago), without receipt, etc not much chance of a refund from the manufacturer.. They'll probably blame "installation error" rather than pump error, or something like "we've had a lot of people install these pumps without any reported problems". I think they are in the US.

Probably not much I could do there, but my thoughts are that the plastic has clearly started to get brittle and eaten away because of the petrol. It did start off soft and spongey. But I couldn't say conclusively.

The solution I guess is to not use the supplied sock at all, and just to run a direct hose to the bottom of the tank (no sock) and just hope your fuel filter is doing its job.

I'm pretty sure you *do* still want a sock on there so that the larger particles dont get in the inner workings of your pump and wear it away prematurely - maybe try to get a new genuine Nissan part and attach that? AFAIK the fuel filter will catch the smaller particles (the ones that screw with the tigher tolerances of the injectors) than the sock does.

Did you ever run any toluene or any other funny stuff?

nope.. 6 months.. about 5000km (haven't need to drive much this year).

Silver_r33.. I could try and attach the nissan sock to the bottom (much better designed), but basically I think I've pretty much given up using the walbro. It can go in the bin as far as I am concerned.

anyhow, enough crapping on.. but its an interesting one.

Great investigative work predator, I installed a Walbro in my R32 around 10,000kms ago....soon I probably would have had to go through the same process as you did, at first thinking my motor was blown........hmmm, best be pulling it out to check out the condition of the filter sock this weekend methinks!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...