Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

here we are guys,

the first one

showphoto.php?photo=15186&cat=500&page=1

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost...&cat=500&page=1

will be in production soon, just waiting on some more equipment to make a better more professional product.

so far only for r33 gtsts

made from 2mm polished aluminium with blue, red or yellow trims

$100 + p/h

[email protected]

cheers

Linton

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75876-garage-debris-airbox-pics-are-up/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 105
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

That looks neat but 2 questions

1. Can an aftermarket pod fit underneath the box or is it an entire replacement for the stock airbox?

2. How does air get in? Or is it more of a heatshield than a proper airbox with duct.

it looks to be more of a heat sheild but hey thats what i was after =)

as WinK said wheres the air come in from ???

you could probally duct it up from under the box where the old intercoolr piping was, have it suck from the front bar !!! CAI yay!!!

i still hae one question tho whats it like for removal and install cause i dont want cleaning it to be a bitch =(

i made a duct from the front bar....air can get in from around the head light and stuff... its a box for aftermarket pods... so you dont get defected.

cleaning the pod is easy as removing three allen head bolts that hold the lid on

installation is easy as too.

cheers

Linton

also making radiator panels, finalising design, pics will be up soon.

Linton I'll volunteer my car for an R32 testbed if you're interested. I will be making my own in a few weeks anyway.

And your R33 looks brilliant! You cant see much from your sig/avatar; the pics in the gallery are the money, and she looks great!

Mark

will be doing other cars soon. i havent quit my day job so i can only do so much with my evenings, waiting on more equipment to make job more professional...

getting into anodizing shortly too, watch this space!! imagine anodized cam covers, cooler piping, inlet manifolds, brackets, anything aluminium...hell even an anodized head.

cheers

Linton

replace the 3 Allen key bolts with thumb-screws like you can get on the back of computer cases and you have a winner. I'd deftinatly appreciate not having to pull out the Allen's every time I want to get into it, less tools the better.

Where in the Valley are you? I havent seen you around and your car is almost identical to mine.

i made a duct from the front bar....air can get in from around the head light and stuff... its a box for aftermarket pods... so you dont get defected.

cleaning the pod is easy as removing three allen head bolts that hold the lid on

installation is easy as too.

cheers

Linton

also making radiator panels, finalising design, pics will be up soon.

are you sure its not defectable?!?! It looks great! wouldn't mind doing that with my car, if you're 100% sure its not defectable :D

its a fully enclosed box housing the filter securely....every cop that has pulled me over has asked whats under it and i just say an air filter....the scowl at me and then look for other things.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...