Jump to content
SAU Community

Idling Problem with and R33 GTS-t


Recommended Posts

Originally posted by Lozza150

here's an oddball one....

Disconnect the battery for a couple of hours....

I've heard that the computers..."reset" themselves .....

If you still have the problem, I'm guessing that it has been repaird now

Never heard of that before :P

But no need to wait for a couple of hours.....

just put your foot on brake and all residual energy is lost and computer is reset......

However will not fix problem!

Your on the right track,

AFM, altho a SAFC isnt going to help if your AFM is dud.

Smelling fumes in cab isnt good.....Thought about and exhaust failure? Cat blockage or maybe steel fibre has come away from a muffler, trying to eliminate things here....

Yeah like the other guys said....Anything to do with feul changing....Pump Injectors(done) Idle air valve, Idle stepper motor, Intake air leaks....hhhhmmmm the symptoms are pretty weird tho maybe there is just a gremlin in there n u have to get him out!!!

I have a bit of an idling problem as well with my 32. After driving around for like half an hour and then park it, when starting up again the car will idle really low (from 1000 (normal) down to when it sometimes stalls). But after say 5 minutes it's all good again. Any ideas people?

Thanks

Scott

Some of you might like this story

One day my R33 GtST decided that "Normal" idle was 1100 rpm, great for new drivers, being able to change gears and not "Bunny Hop" the Skyline, Anyway... 3 days the idle did this...I went for a drive down Paramatta rd..(one end to the other) test out them shocks,

Halliluiya(english me good yeah?) .... idle back to Normal (700 ish).....

Maybe that's all it takes......

Whats the bet it will do it again tho....

Loz

  • 2 weeks later...

Well I recently fixed this problem with my car,

There are several things to test/check/clean

1. I had to replace the o2 senser (my old one rattled internally causing all sorts of miss readings)

2. clean/replace the Afm (mine had a bad connection internally which caused the car to stall randomly)

3. clean/adjust Acc valve (mine was sticking)

4. ensure the ecu is not in diag mode (turn the fine screw all the way to the left on the unit. (this caused fast idle on mine)

I have a vent to atmo bov which many people told me was the problem this I have found to be untrue.

It would seem the moulitude of problems made mine hard to diagnose nobody had quite the same symptoms as me.

I was getting about 150 klm to a tank (running very rich all the time)

Car would die for no reason no matter what speed.

generally rough running.

my car is not yet perfict as i feel the plugs are fouled from running so rich for so long, but for so many things to go wrong with it at once is just freeky pleased to say all is good now smooth idle ect just seems to break down at high loads prob due to the plugs.

Hope this helps someone

Regards Damqik

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...