Jump to content
SAU Community

WTF...R32 GTR Speed limited..!..?

PSI_GTSII
 Share

Recommended Posts

lwells Grand Master

lwells

Posted
Posted
sav man:with the wire cut what does the hicas do?dosnt work altogether or light in dash flashes or what?

The wire is for the speed sensor, so things that rely on speed to activate -- i.e. HICAS -- get confused, which is why cutting the wire = bad.

PSI_GTSII: Your car is obviously fux0red. Give it to me to keep. :cheers:

Lucien.

PSI_GTSII Experienced

PSI_GTSII

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The wire is for the speed sensor, so things that rely on speed to activate -- i.e. HICAS -- get confused, which is why cutting the wire = bad

So if I fitted Power FC what would then happen to this wire.....as I thought the PFC replaced the factory ECU...?

And no Lucien you cannot look after my car :);)

PSI_GTSII Experienced

PSI_GTSII

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The PFC completely replaces the ECU and doesn't have a speed cut: you leave the wire attached.

Sorry I'm confused ;)

Attached to what...?

So you cannot cut the speed limit wire as it makes the HICAS etc go crazy, but if you pull the original ECU out of the car to replace it with PFC, what then is this wire connected to..?

And if nothing, how is that different from just cutting it..?

I will grasp the concept soon I promise :)

lwells Grand Master

lwells

Posted
Posted

Urgh.

The wire is part of the loom that plugs in to the ECU. When you cut the wire, the ECU no longer recieves a speed reading (which is why it doesn't pull fuel) and therefore can't properly activate/deactivate speed sensitive devices, like HICAS.

When you completely replace the ECU with a PFC, the PFC plugs in to the same loom and recieves the speed signal (assuming you haven't cut the wire). However, the PFC is not programmed to pull fuel when the sensor reports 180+KM/H.

Lucien.

Guest Mashrock

Guest Mashrock

Posted
Posted
All jap cars are limited at around 180 kmh ( usualy 185 or so ) .

Bog stock gtrs will hit the speed cutout very easy and depending on model ( if you dont have the limiter ) will go on up to 250 kmh ( r34 gtr ) .

I took my stock 34 to the drag strip ( only mod , catback exhaust ) and i hit the cutout in 4th just after the 400 mt finish line .

i get up to around 220 (i have a 180 speedo) and still have 2 gears left :cheers:

done on a private road also. :)

rukus Grand Master

rukus

Posted
Posted
the speedo is way out at that sort of speed, when i hit the cutout if there was still markings on the speedo it would have shown about 200 so around 15km/h too much. (in r33 gtst)

i had to get my speedo fixed coz of the 18's. speedo was showing 15k/h over b4 i got it fixed

psybic Proficient

psybic

Posted
Posted

Don't know why people are having problems with people saying speed cut wasn't till 200.

My supra and skyline have both speed cut pretty much spot on 200. I can tell this by looking at the speedo and its a damn site closer to where the 200 would be written than the 180 mark.

Maybe they were wrong, but I promise both cars were bloody close to 200km when they hit it.

siksII Grand Master

siksII

Posted
Posted
Don't know why people are having problems with people saying speed cut wasn't till 200.

My supra and skyline have both speed cut pretty much spot on 200. I can tell this by looking at the speedo and its a damn site closer to where the 200 would be written than the 180 mark.

Maybe they were wrong, but I promise both cars were bloody close to 200km when they hit it.

its the speedos, the speed cut as wrxhoon says is in the 180's the speedo is incorrect at those speeds.

u can see how fast u really go by working it out on the rpm u are doing when u hit the cut.

xRHETTx Mentor

xRHETTx

Posted
Posted

If you dont want or need to spend the money to get a PFC, there are plenty of cheaper options to get rid of the speed limiter. Most aftermarket rev/speed meters will override the speed cut. Ive got an old Ultra brand speed meter that does 0-400m ET and top speed and has a trip computer sort of thing, and it cuts it out. Im sure you'd be able to pick up a second hand one for less than $100.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...