Jump to content
SAU Community

rb25/30 wont run

dnb

By dnb,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

dnb Rising Star

dnb

Posted
Posted

hey guys.

a mate of mine has a rb25/30 which has been on the road for a few months.

all of a sudden it got low oil pressure,we changed the pump and she still wont run.

it sounds like a timing related problem but ive checked everything and its all ok.

when it cranks the engine will fire and it spins backwards a little bit.

im thinking that maybe the lifters are dry? would this cause such a problem?

any help much appreciated guys:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76404-rb2530-wont-run/
Share on other sites
BBQ Community Regular

BBQ

Posted
Posted
hey guys.

a mate of mine has a rb25/30 which has been on the road for a few months.

all of a sudden it got low oil pressure,we changed the pump and she still wont run.

it sounds like a timing related problem but ive checked everything and its all ok.

when it cranks the engine will fire and it spins backwards a little bit.

im thinking that maybe the lifters are dry? would this cause such a problem?

any help much appreciated guys:)

Check to make sure you haven't sliped a tooth on the timing belt when you did the oil pump change.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76404-rb2530-wont-run/#findComment-1401669
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

If its kicking back, then the timing is TOOOOO advanced. You shouldn't be able to get it so advanced because of the half-moon tabs in the CAS, but the camshaft side has been known to part company, and then you can set the CAS wherever you like.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76404-rb2530-wont-run/#findComment-1401949
Share on other sites
  • 6 months later...
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted (edited)

There's no need for a dot to do figures..

Line it all up at TDC then tweak the cam belt and its tension. Simple as that.

Remember everyones tension location will be ever so slightly different not to mention the tension they place on it and if they have used two tensioners in stead of just one, so don't use the teeth counting method, it sucks. :P

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76404-rb2530-wont-run/#findComment-1820337
Share on other sites
dnb Rising Star

dnb

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah i realise that.

my problem is we have just put a new rb25/30 in my mates car and it wont fire.

it has fuel and spark.

the engine sounds funny when it cranks and seems to spin very easily.

my other thought is possibly the hydrualic cam followers are not primed up and the valves arent opening much,if at all.

it is also running a microtech which was running the rb25 previously.nothing has changed there.

any help seriously appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76404-rb2530-wont-run/#findComment-1820352
Share on other sites
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Double check everything....

Ensure the cam timing is correct, ignition timing is correct (no guesses and if it double pulses and reads funny double loop the wire over and it should read right), double check fuel and spark.

Mine has lifters that had been bled, upon starting the motor it idled fine but ticked for quite a while until it got some rev's in to it then it was nice and quiet.. So no it won't be the hydraulic followers.

Its probably something silly, if its spinning over quick has it got spark plugs in it? :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76404-rb2530-wont-run/#findComment-1820384
Share on other sites
dnb Rising Star

dnb

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah its got plugs lol,but thats exactly what it feels like.

i just put it to tdc and each cam pulleys dot to the mark on the timing cover back plate. so i assume cam timing is correct.

ignition timing cannot be checked yet because the bloody thing wont run lol. but its the same map that was previously in it so it should run(made 456rwhp as a 2.5l)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76404-rb2530-wont-run/#findComment-1820399
Share on other sites
MonstaS4 Collaborator

MonstaS4

Posted
Posted

I havn't tried this, but surely you could still check ign timing while the engine is cranking over? If you've got spark, then the timing light has to be getting a signal. It won't be accurate, but you should be able to start it.

You may have fuel, but do you have pressure? Can you hear the injectors switching?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76404-rb2530-wont-run/#findComment-1821901
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • nouveau_poor
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By nouveau_poor · Posted

      I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • GoHashiriya
      R34 Skyline Sunroof Won't Tilt/Vent

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Skyline Sunroof Won't Tilt/Vent

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Something's broken.
    • PranK
      Shoota's R33 GT-R RB30/26

      By PranK · Posted

      It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • ShezzDogs
      R34 Skyline Sunroof Won't Tilt/Vent

      By ShezzDogs · Posted

      Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...