Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok all, those of you who know me will know I am not a crazed 18yr old P plater with a bad attitude or bad driving record.... so this is the story from last night!

picked up my newly finished pride and joy from BEL (those guys are just amazing!!!! more to follow about there excellent work!...) and was putt putting home towards the airport, and saw a police car in the RH lane doing 40kmh.... I new I wasnt speeding, or doing anything foolish, so I thought "I can drive past this guy ( 3 lane road ) and there will not be a problem because I am well below the speed limit... ( I was doing 55 )

anyhow.... was then followed for about 3 km, safe in the knowledge that my car is quiet and I am being a good 31yr old tax paying citizen.....

THEN....

lights go on, pull over....

2 police officers, (both nice guys it turns out) ask me if I know that my car is defectable... your exhaust is too low...." of course not officer, I just picked it up from being serviced " etc etc, as always, being polite, as it is the best way to be with anyone, not just police :(

basically from there they went over the car, and got me on some minor things, while we chatted about the car (they loved it....) and my job...

they could have done me for a massive amount of things, but got me for basically minor things, as we all stood there 5 or 6 holden noise makers went past yelling abuse at the police.... :S go figure!

this is the list of 4 they got me for :-

-exhaust too low 60mm (yes it is too low, but the only person to get hurt by it would be my wallet if i was silly enough to smash it on something....)

-possiblly too loud, they couldnt tell but admitted it sounded great, and was not loud...

-catch can, they said they couldnt tell if it was legal or not

-filters exposed (said box them or get stock again)

so thats it!!!

now my question to you all is, can anyone help me out with an engineer at the right price to get the peice of paper I need to stop this is the future...

I have 28 days to fix these things, and would like to do it as $$$$$ (cheaply) as possible...

thanks for your input and please dont abuse the police! as these guys said "we cant tell if your a dick just driving along....sorry"

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76589-help-please-defected-r32-gt-r/
Share on other sites

It only costs about $500 to get your whole car engineered, so my advice would be to get an emissions test done first and tuck your exhaust up so that its >100mm. Then just take it to any engineer. There you will get a drive by induction test done (for your pod filters), a stationary noise test for your exhaust and the engineer should pass everything else, assuming that the emissions test is OK.

-possiblly too loud, they couldnt tell but admitted it sounded great, and was not loud...

-catch can, they said they couldnt tell if it was legal or not

So they weren't sure but they defected you for it anyway? That's like saying "look I think you were doing 80 in a 60 zone but because I was driving in the opposite direction I really don't have any idea but hey look heres a speeding fine just for the trouble".

what can you do? argue and it will just make things worse.... they were overall good guys, just doing there job.... just the job now is not stoping cars that are poor quality or dangerous, just TV styled AcA publicity for the Gov....

Hey you weren't GTR-xxx or (R32-xxx, can't remember now) getting defected on parramatta road on friday night were you?

I saw the bonnet open and the cops looking underneath the car.

Sorry to hear about the defect, but I still don't know how a car being too low can be defected, as you mention the worse it can do it just damage your own car. actually a lower can can be safer for pedesterians as the point of contact would be lower and there for the body would roll onto the bonnet easier.

*edit* plates removed at owners request

I have an engineers cert and it doesn't do squat because the RTA defect pits "don't have time to go through the entire certificate"... to be honest i didn't have time at midnight to go and wait while they f*@k round with no idea what they're doing...

i got a blue slip done at M&C Zec (or something like that) at castle hill... twin pods 3" zorst yadda yadda... all good :) look em up in the phone book :P

yes was me.... just delete my number plate in your post thanks mate.....

all fixed, problem solvered.....

thanks all and sundry for pointing me in the right direction to getting the car engineered and back on the road :):)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...