Which Oil?

[Topaz]

I am about to change the oil on my R32 GTR and need to know which is good to get....

I think they are good with 15W/60 oil, is that right?

I saw Valvoline Synth Power in Supercheap today, that was 10W/60 for about $45 I think...

[williamsf1]

money no object? motul 300v

great value = repsol 10w 50 full synthetic.... holds consistant oil pressure even at full tilt

don't touch a low synth. oil, you will run out of pressure at V high temps.... so don't go for the 0W 5W or even 10W....

and always go for the best you can afford... simple

[gun32gtr]

whats wrong with say mobil 1 0w-40 for r32 gtr

[slow13dude]

whats wrong with say mobil 1 0w-40 for r32 gtr

It is too thin.

Nissan recommends AT LEAST 5w-30 for the RB26. Thicker for racing applications and worn engines.

[Dale FZ1]

Suggestion: pick up the phone and speak with the oil techs at Shell. They can give you some good advice whether you use their product or not.

There are definite advantages to running full synthetic if you run at extreme load and revs for extended periods - much higher shear resistance and thermal stability than synthetic fortified blends. The downside is at least double the cost.

Synthetic fortified blends are generally a good, cost effective product although a common view is that your oil change periods are shorter. At least it won't cost the earth if you want to do a quick change before/after a track day.

Generally the lower viscosity (eg 0W40, 5W30) oils are recommended as a 'winter' brew if you operate in below freezing temps, or if the manufacturer (or engine builder) has used components that deal with oil of that spec. You might be aware of the troubles Holden had with their Gen III engines being serviced with 20W50 oil when Chev had engineered them to use the lower viscosity blend to reduce frictional losses (and improve efficiency). Evidently Holden's consumer research indicated that buyers perceived a 20W50 to be the "best" oil for their V8. Their own literature recommended oil of that specification, and ultimately resulted in a fair amount of warranty work to fix excessive oil consumption problems. I believe they have since changed the spec of the oil scraper rings on the pistons to fix this.

The only other observation I've had is that engines run consistently at high revs/load (ie race engines that place high thermal loading on the oil) seem to run oil specs like the Castrol 10W60 you have found. This is generally a means of maintaining good oil pressure under those conditions.

Bottom line: consider the actual use you are putting the car to, climate you are operating in, your servicing regime, and Nissan's recommendations. Specification of the oil should be more important than the brand, although I personally don't tend to jump across brands. Hope this helps, and any alternative opinions are welcome.

cheers

For

[gun32gtr]

reason being ive just put in my gtr and its running fine...but my car is hardly ever under much stress as i only drive on weekends and never real far!so will it be ok for 5000kms and when i drop it next just change it then?or should i drop it now(bye bye $100)?

seen as tho i hardly give it a real hard time what would be the best oil for us?maybe mobil 1, 5w-30?cheers

[Topaz]

money no object? motul 300v

great value = repsol 10w 50 full synthetic.... holds consistant oil pressure even at full tilt

don't touch a low synth. oil, you will run out of pressure at V high temps.... so don't go for the 0W 5W or even 10W....

and always go for the best you can afford... simple

whats the damage on some of that 300v stuff?

I thought $45 was ok price but I will go as high as say ~$80 for the GTR, and will look at a 10W/50-60 viscosity

cheers

Tom

[williamsf1]

you should be able to get 10W 50 full syn in any of the good brands (castrol, motul, repsol, etc etc) for about 70-80 tops for the amount u need for the GTR....

motul 300v is hexy, cheapest would be via motul or say justjap who do good prices....

give them a ring they are nice guys, and all own GTR's