Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Couple of things to clarify about rb30/25 conversion.

I have read threw the sticky thread, and had some great imput from a couple of guys but need to clarify different answers as I have the block and head ready and waiting.

1. Using sk's 475 hp version of conversion. standard rb30 pistons with ceramic crowns I understand are not the weak point for this power, correct? Does this include boost of upto 20psi? If I have to have forged pistons to be safe - which ones to keep compression high?

2. If standard pistons are ok for above which rings to get?

3. GTR cams/springs, for this power do I need them? or will the rb25de ones be ok upto 250-300rwkw mark.

Thanks for your help guys, just didn't want to find out mistake or waste of money after I have finished.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76992-rb30-qs/
Share on other sites

consider that with a properly sized turbo (GT35/40 1.06 rear for example) you will be hitting 450rwhp at about 15 psi, judging on what other people have got with decent tuning. the pistons will be fine unless it pings. in which case forgies will last about 2 seconds longer than cast pistons before destroying themselves. the rods are what you need to worry about. standard RB30 rods prepped (stress-relieved then shotpeened) will get you to about 300rwkw reliably, but i wouldn't push them to 7000rpm too regularly, know what i mean? :P

GTR springs could be worthwhile if you are using a DE head - apparently the seating pressure can be a bit iffy on them. or just get it checked by a head specialist and see what sort of pressure they're actually getting.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76992-rb30-qs/#findComment-1409395
Share on other sites

I have just spent quite a bit of time going through the RB30 thread and also various websites and the pdf but one question which is brushed over but not directly addressed, well as far as I can see, is do all RB blocks share the same engine mount bolt pattern, that is, are all RB engine mounts fully interchangeable?

I thought I would post here rather than continue the cluttering of the RB30 thread.

Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76992-rb30-qs/#findComment-1409420
Share on other sites

1.) using SK's 475hp example, you will also have read his main key in that result.

I think it was something like... TUNING...TUNING...TUNING... and more TUNING...

Also, he got that 475HP at the engine using an old T04 of some sort at 1 bar boost. and at 6200rpm was max power.

the low RPM and low BOOST and careful tuning is the reason that engine has over 70,000kms on it and still going.

2.) I believe he used OEM rings, bearings and gaskets.

I think that CUBES PDF also has what part numbers and brands he used. The PDF is in his signature.

3.) Cams should be fine for that figure from other's finding. The Valve springs though... I'm not sure.

Joel (CUBES) and his mate both bought R32 RB25de heads and sent them away for testing.

Joels was fine but the other one had seating issues..

I think the GTR valves will set you back about 300 - 400 dollars and that would be fine for the power you are after.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76992-rb30-qs/#findComment-1409601
Share on other sites

1.) using SK's 475hp example, you will also have read his main key in that result.

I think it was something like... TUNING...TUNING...TUNING... and more TUNING...

Also, he got that 475HP at the engine using an old T04 of some sort at 1 bar boost. and at 6200rpm was max power.

the low RPM and low BOOST and careful tuning is the reason that engine has over 70,000kms on it and still going.

2.) I believe he used OEM rings, bearings and gaskets.

I think that CUBES PDF also has what part numbers and brands he used. The PDF is in his signature.

3.) Cams should be fine for that figure from other's finding. The Valve springs though... I'm not sure.

Joel (CUBES) and his mate both bought R32 RB25de heads and sent them away for testing.

Joels was fine but the other one had seating issues..

I think the GTR valves will set you back about 300 - 400 dollars and that would be fine for the power you are after.

The engine has standard Commondoor everything, rings, bearings, seals the lot.

Yep the trick is low boost, low rpm, keep the power sensible (resist the urge for that extra 20 rwkw's) and TUNING.

It is not a simply swap to stick GTR (solid follower) valve springs in a GTST (hydraulic followers). You have to modify the spring seats and the retainers and set up the seat pressure with shims. That's why we went for 1 bar, the RB25DET springs handled it easily.

:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76992-rb30-qs/#findComment-1409686
Share on other sites

The engine has standard Commondoor everything, rings, bearings, seals the lot.

Yep the trick is low boost, low rpm, keep the power sensible (resist the urge for that extra 20 rwkw's) and TUNING.

It is not a simply swap to stick GTR (solid follower) valve springs in a GTST (hydraulic followers).  You have to modify the spring seats and the retainers and set up the seat pressure with shims.  That's why we went for 1 bar, the RB25DET springs handled it easily.

:)

Thanks for your help guys.

So keep to 1 bar of boost as max, don't rev beyond 6500 regardless of springs and all will be ok.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76992-rb30-qs/#findComment-1410204
Share on other sites

I have just spent quite a bit of time going through the RB30 thread and also various websites and the pdf but one question which is brushed over but not directly addressed, well as far as I can see, is do all RB blocks share the same engine mount bolt pattern, that is, are all RB engine mounts fully interchangeable?

I thought I would post here rather than continue the cluttering of the RB30 thread.

Thanks guys

The mounting points (bolt pattern) on the blocks are the same, but the actual engine mounts are different between all model rb's ive seen. Rb20 is different to rb25, is different to rb26, is different to rb30 ....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76992-rb30-qs/#findComment-1410315
Share on other sites

The mounting points (bolt pattern) on the blocks are the same, but the actual engine mounts are different between all model rb's ive seen. Rb20 is different to rb25, is different to rb26, is different to rb30 ....

Appreciate it :kewl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76992-rb30-qs/#findComment-1413333
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...