Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think we need to just confirm a few things about the R33 non-turbo skylines. Firstly not all R33's were turbo, they came with RB25DE engines.

They may not be turbo but they can hold their own, I went 1 and 0 off the line over 200m 'I think' against R32 GTS-T, so they have plenty of power. Plus they look good done up, WITHOUT being rice!!!

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Man you guys were ripped off something shocking!!! My I'm obviously in Tas and I brought mine from the mainland, Vic. It was in perfect condition..one or two spots on the paint, 58K's on the clock (its true k's) stock standard 100% and I picked it up very cheap indeed. $9500.

If you want to get a value on them at the moment go to http://www.carsguide.com.au and value the car. A R33 GTS is worth between about $10 to 13000. That's the average national private sales price anyway. If they really want to sell their car they wont say no to an offer anywhere up to about $2000 less than what they are asking. GTS's are harder to sell then turbos, 'sometimes' so make sure your getting it for the bvest price possible!!

Man you guys were ripped off something shocking!!! My I'm obviously in Tas and I brought mine from the mainland, Vic. It was in perfect condition..one or two spots on the paint, 58K's on the clock (its true k's) stock standard 100% and I picked it up very cheap indeed. $9500.  

If you want to get a value on them at the moment go to http://www.carsguide.com.au and value the car. A R33 GTS is worth between about $10 to 13000. That's the average national private sales price anyway. If they really want to sell their car they wont say no to an offer anywhere up to about $2000 less than what they are asking. GTS's are harder to sell then turbos, 'sometimes' so make sure your getting it for the bvest price possible!!

What should i do>?

i got it from a Importer.

I think we need to just confirm a few things about the R33 non-turbo skylines. Firstly not all R33's were turbo, they came with RB25DE engines.

They may not be turbo but they can hold their own, I went 1 and 0 off the line over 200m 'I think' against R32 GTS-T, so they have plenty of power. Plus they look good done up, WITHOUT being rice!!!

Read back further in the thread - there are 2.0L SOHC NA R33's (GTS spec) - 100kw of pure power as well....... The GTS25's are not bad, but the GTS's on the other hand....

Hey Ant, what's the go with this type S 140/147kws? how does that valve mechanism add the 7 kws? Obviously something to do with the exhaust but how does it work exactly?

There is a valve in the (standard) 2nd exhaust outlet that opens above 4000rpm (not sure on that value - just what I've heard). Essentially frees up the exhaust a bit. Not sure if that accounts for all of the extra 7kw - the ECU mapping may be slightly different as well?

Read back further in the thread - there are 2.0L SOHC NA R33's (GTS spec) - 100kw of pure power as well....... The GTS25's are not bad, but the GTS's on the other hand....

There is a valve in the (standard) 2nd exhaust outlet that opens above 4000rpm (not sure on that value - just what I've heard). Essentially frees up the exhaust a bit. Not sure if that accounts for all of the extra 7kw - the ECU mapping may be slightly different as well?

Yeh mine has one of those.

it makes this sik sound when it does open at bout 5000rpm .

and usually when i pull out of the drive way and take of on the street it does as well.

  • 3 weeks later...
By revin it 2much wears the engine faster. i dont need that cause my clutch is stuffed and im on the way to buying one of them real soon.

I don't know exactly how much RPM i reach when i get out of my drive way.

i dont want 2 f**k the cltuch up.

My freind just brought a corolla. (lol. 4 cylinder)

EY

I AM ABOUT 2 SELL MY DIRT BIKE FOR $3700 AND I AM PLANING ON SPENDING $1200 ROUGLY ON SOME WHITE POWDER COATED RIMS, AND GETING THE CAR FULLY RESPRAYED OVER . WHITE(SAME COLOUR IT CAME WITH BUT CAR IS MISSING PAINT) WHICH MY MECHANIC TOLD ME WILL COST ME ROUGLY $2000 2 GET THE WHOLE CAR RESPRAYED.

I SHOULD STILL HAVE SOME LEFT OVER BANK AND WITH THIS MY CLUTCH IS NEARLY f**kED THANKS 2 THE ASIAN WHO HAD DRIVEN IT B4 ME.

THAT GONNA COST ME $700 BROUGHT AND FITTED.

AND THAT SHOULD B ALL I NEED FOR NOW OTHER THAN A EXHAUST SYSTEM.:D

BUT THAT CAN WAIT:p

Ey

I've been in the market 4 an exhaust system fitted.

Although i havetrouble finding them my freind has a 67 mini.

ive seen the price for the exhaust systems being sold for the 67' minis and it seems that the older the model the cheaper the price.

the systems i've seen at autobarn for Skylines seem to be costing me between $1000- $2000 g.

why is this so?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...