How to instal Power FC

[RC33]

Hi all and am well informed that this has been covered a few million times can some send me a link on how to instal hiflow turbo etc step by step guide.Thanks guys

[JH32]

rick next time you cruise past, knock on the door and get jules to show you. he's got exams at the moment so home most of the time. my engine's on the stand so he can show you how easy it is

and powerfc is as easy as unplugging the old ecu and plugging in the powerfc

[Cubes]

Out of curiosity.

Those that have fitted up a PFC and driven on the stock map.

Did you have any issues with the warm starts?

I had to dial up the fuel a little for the warm start crank as it was simply sitting there spinning over and over.

Since I've fitted the Z32 I've also experienced a slight little flat spot on the accelerator when cold, bumping up the +10 and +30 water temp fuel compensation has totally got rid of the slight dead spot.

[sewid]

I wouldn't be driving on the stock map. The PowerFC doesn't have any of the knock protection that the stock ECU has so if you experience detonation under load (quite likely with the stock PowerFC map) you wont have anything to fall back on except letting off the accelerator. By which time it may be too late and you may have damaged your engine.

The FC's stock map works fine for some and very poorly for others (it pinged a lot on my old R33). In my opinion it is best to drive the car to a reputable tuner with the stock ECU installed, install the PowerFC, and tune. Better safe than sorry.

Unless you know the ins and outs of the FC configuration and your car and are competent at street tuning then I guess go for it.

[SeriesIIGTST]

I and my mechanic actually found that the stock PFC map was pretty good for my car. I drove it to the mechanic with it installed and we ran it up on the dyno and only moved the map a little to get it better. Saying that, I never flogged it around with the untuned PFC, only low/no-boost driving to the tuner.

Cubes - obvious question cause you sound like you know what you're doing but did you configure the PFC to specify the Z32 AFM? When I installed mine, everything ran beautifully and I didn't touch anything.

[Cubes]

I'm a fiddler, its as simply as that. So I wasn't scared to do a little bit of street tuning.

Suprisingly the RB20DET PowerFC's base map ran quite well with the RB30DET. lol

The Base map is quite safe as even with the 3ltr and making 175rwkw at 4400rpm it was pushing the injectors to 100% duty cycle at around 3000rpm. The AFR's were plenty rich.

WOT ign. timing was a little advanced for the 3ltr as the small turbo and N/A RB25 cams is not a good match.

Reversion due to back pressure and cams that have overlap (N/A) sucks.

At peak power its only running 15degree's ign. timing vs the RB20's base map of 20degree's.

Peak torque its got 17degree's for one rpm point then to 16degree's for another rpm point then 15degree's from there on.

Before I put it on the dyno, I wired up the Z32 plugged it and and simply selected Z32 from the AFM option menu. This is when I noticed a slight dead spot when stone cold. I mean stone cold as I NEVER warm up my cars.

However, spend 5 minutes warming the car up and there is no dead spot.

I live by the rule you do more damage and waste fuel by warming up the car than simply driving it off lightly.

Driving it off lightly brings water temps, piston temps and idle temps up much quicker.

Upon a cold start I can hear the forgy's slapping slightly. If I idle it for 10minutes the pistons are still ever so slightly tapping. Slapping for 10minutes, thats a lot of slaps.

I was told not to warm up the car but simply drive it off lighty by the engine builder.

He said it keeps the bores and pistons in better condition for longer.

I drive the car changing at 2000rpm and piston slap goes away within 200meters.

Thats less than a minute.

Water temps are up to normal operating temp within 2minutes and oil pressure down (oil temp is up) within another 5-7minutes. lol went off topic there.

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Do the R33 PFC's have the listing of RB20, Z32, VH41 (90mm)?

I think this is where the AP PowerFC differs to the regular PFC's.

IF I don't select Z32 from the AFM menu and try to drive around AFR's are lean. It drives nice and I can't tell but its constantly lean.

A friend of mine has a Q45 90mm AFM, it runs a pod adapter that acts like a restrictor, its smaller than the afm ID.

For some strange reason his car ran basically perfect with the stock AFM option selected.

Possibly a problem caused by the pod adaptor being smaller than the AFM.

Select the correct afm from the afm menu in the pfc and it ploomed black smoke as it ran as rich as hell.