Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, All

I 'm looking for next family ride, now it's only a matter of toss between inport myself or buy local.

However I need your advice in term of " how to identify crash repaired " and the "Odometer (spell) reading".

I have been to a few yard in Sydney and check up different imports, some of them have lower kilometers, which is like a 98 model with 35000km on it, or a 97 model with 52000km on it. does this sounds right to you? Most auction sheet I have saw so far all like 60K +, yes, I do see some lower one in auction with grade 4.5 /4 and sold for outside our budget, but what happen to those already here, i.e. a 98' with 35000km chamonix ask for 26000 on a QLD dealer's website? Could it be possible? how do you know the odometer is original reading? can ppl trick it?

and how / where to check if this delica has been crash repaired?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77312-how-to-check-if-car-crash-repaired/
Share on other sites

The way i usually tell if a vehicle has been crash repaired is pretty much go over the whole car with a fine tooth comb (thoroughly). Check all seam seals (cracks, inconsistancy, different on one side to the other), check all edges for fuzzy paint edges, check all window seals for oversparay (especially on 1/4 panel - roof area, check this area for paint fade-outs too), check panels for inconsistant peel, dullness, defects, shrinkback ect. check for colour differences from panel to panel. make sure the car is in a well lit area and look on an angle down the sides, check for rippley/wavey panels. make sure all gaps are consistant. make sure doors, bonnet, boot all open/close without problems. Always good if you can check underneath the car too, chassis rails, under guards ect. It takes awhile to check all these things, but well worth it in the end, hope that helps.

sam

Whites can have a few variations, darker-lighter, dirty-clean, red-green and yellow-blue

Silvers most obvious are light-dark, fine-coarse, there are also varied colour undertones to look for, most comon is a silver is yellow-blue.

The best way to pick a colour variation is to check the flip, to do this, make sure the car is in the sunlight (also helps if the car is clean) and look on an angle towards the two panels.

im a spray painter btw, so i gotta do this stuff everyday :D

Dont bother looking at the odo to tell the k's, they can be wound back easily, and just as easily swapped for another one. Look at the steering wheel and pedals for wear, aswell as the drivers seat condition etc. A car with 50k's on it and a worn out steering wheel has something that doesn't add up.

At the end of the day the k's dont matter, its the condition thats important.

The way i usually tell if a vehicle has been crash repaired is pretty much go over the whole car with a fine tooth comb (thoroughly). Check all seam seals (cracks, inconsistancy, different on one side to the other), check all edges for fuzzy paint edges, check all window seals for oversparay (especially on 1/4 panel - roof area, check this area for paint fade-outs too), check panels for inconsistant peel, dullness, defects, shrinkback ect. check for colour differences from panel to panel. make sure the car is in a well lit area and look on an angle down the sides, check for rippley/wavey panels. make sure all gaps are consistant. make sure doors, bonnet, boot all open/close without problems. Always good if you can check underneath the car too, chassis rails, under guards ect. It takes awhile to check all these things, but well worth it in the end, hope that helps.

sam

thats a good explanation of what to do, its what i was going to say!

look for plastic welding around the front of the car as sign of minor front end accidents..

most imports have been resprayed, or at least a large part of the car has been painted.. probably more important than minor accident damage is rust, check for sgins of corrosion around the engine bay on the alloy parts, there is a lot of rusty imports around, they usually paint the whole car so its not obvious but u can tell especially by looking in the engine bay, boot and under the car (either rusty or covered in fresh tar)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...