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Next time, wedge the breaker bar, with a piece of pipe to lenghten it, against the chassis rail, then disconnect the ignitor and turn the motor over on the starter.

I assume you are talking about the balancer bolt.

That makes it hard then.

I have a sprocket holder that fits in the balancer and gives me something to work against. Holding on the gearbox just has enough give to take the sting out of it.

Not sure if you've got the bolt undone yet but I had the same problem with my 32R a couple of months ago - this is how I undid it.

Use a breaker bar with a 1.2m pipe extension over the handle.

Put the car in 4th gear, pull on the handbrake as hard as you can, get someone to sit in the car and stand hard on the brake pedal.

With one hand put as much tension as you can on the bolt using the breaker bar and extension (I mean hang off it!) then using a sledgehammer whack the pipe as hard as you can and hopefully the bolt will loosen. I gave mine about 4 whacks before it moved.

I tried the breaker under the chassis rail and hit the starter method but that just stalled the starter. I think this only works on RB20 and 25's as they have 1/3 the torque on the bolt that the RB26 has.

I tried the breaker under the chassis rail and hit the starter method but that just stalled the starter. I think this only works on RB20 and 25's as they have 1/3 the torque on the bolt that the RB26 has.

Specified Torques are the same. Its more luck of the draw with how tight the bugger is.

... Its more luck of the draw with how tight the bugger is.
And that seems to be determined by how long it has been since it was last undone.

When I fitted the RB25DET to my R32 GTS4, I had to swap front diffs. On the RB25, the pinion bolt undid with the aid of an electric rattle gun. But the gun wouldn't come within a bull's roar of undoing the RB20's. Had to use a 4 foot breaker bar on a 3/4" ratchet head to undo it!

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