Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK guys just need some un-biased opinions. I've come to the conclusion that I need some type of fuel management aids. By looking at the dyno sheet, you can see some real bad dips (40hp near the end). I've been told that its the ecu and its retarding when running higher boost. (correct me if im wrong, this is just what ive been told by a few people as a 'possible cause')

dynosm.jpg

I want to know basically if I should bite the bullet and just go for a power FC, or do the cheaper Super AFC II option. Also.. I can get the Power FC off these forums for about $980 delivered, but how much is this going to cost to get fitted and tuned? The SAFC II is about $400 delivered, but is this cheaper to install and tune as well?

BTW mods are

seperated dump pipe to 3" s/s exh, hks pod, man boost control, Hybrid FMIC.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77715-powerfc-or-safc-ii/
Share on other sites

the boost control itself seems to be a bit dip-py aswell, floating around 10psi..

ive got 3" split dump, 3.5" exhaust, pod filter, ARC 450 FMIC, Microtech LT-12 running a pretty stock config, except its a bit flat at the start of the rev range, and i get 270RWHP

(i dont have a picture of my dyno graphy handy, but its pretty much the same as yours, except at the start it gets more power pretty quick, then midrange it flattens off, then it jumps heaps towards the end, and begins to curve down a tad near redline, peaking at 270RWHP at about 135km/h, altho it was dyno'd in 3rd gear)

so it should be safe to say you could get another ~30hp, and a more steady graph with some decent management. :(

If you want to add hp by just changing the ecu & want to modify your car later on, PowerFC. The safc will give you the right air-fuel ratio though, it's just a question of budget. What boost are you running????

If that power dip is due to retardation a SAFC won't help because it only adjusts the fuel not timing I believe.

What did Lumpy recommend as he knows his Nissans so I would go with that.

Other than that I'm another vote for the PFC.

It plugs straight in and only has to be tuned as opposed to wired up then tuned so install and tune costs may not differ that much.

Cheers for the advice guys.

bnr#@ - Had the bumper off to re-fibreglass and paint, its back on now, driving around with a big fmic in front wouldnt be too smart :D

ossie_21 - Im running about 0.8ish of a bar. The car drives smoother when running lower boost tho, not so up and down. When running about .8, it takes off good, then tapers off then takes off again a bit. Feels very slow ;)

I think I may need to just bite the bullet and buy the power FC, its just $1600ish I can't really afford to spend at this time, but yeh chances are down the track I 'may' change the turbo, so power fc will seem like a better option

Just to throw a curve ball, sorry - but have you considered the Greddy e-manage?

It starts life as a SAFC, but can be cheaply upgrade to provide FULL management. Lap top programming etc. It really is a versatile ecu, cost a little more than the SAFC, but alot cheaper than power fc, especially initial purchase.

From someone that has done the SAFCII route and then gone the PFC, I would highly recommend going straight to the PFC. I certainly wish I had. If this means driving your car more sedately and saving the extra money, do it. I was very similar to you, had funds for SAFCII but not for PFC but in my opinion, the money i spent on SAFCII + tuning was essentially wasted cause the PFC is such a better tuning option.

Also, in relation to the dips, do a basic diagnostics. I had a serious dip in one of my curves at high rpm (and when i say serious, i mean 100rwhp serious) and this turned out to be a knock sensor wire come loose which a simple diagnostics detected. Plugged it back in, took it for a tune again and no dip. It may help, it may not, but hope it does :)

Yeh .. the group buy needs like 30 people tho. HASHIRIYA on these forums is selling power fc + commander for $1020 delivered to door, then put on however much to tune it. Yeh ive read that its a DIY job for sure.

Uneekwahn - $1600 was a rough supplied fitted and tuned price (with 1yr aust warranty)

Just wondering if its worth it buying myself, fitting it, then just driving it somewhere to tune, ive been told powerfc std settings is 'safe' but dont floor it until a tune. Anyone know how much it is just to do a first tune of a powerfc? Keep in mind i won the raffle @ hyperdrive on the weekend so i got a power run and dyno tune to value of $150 ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...