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Cam Gear & Dyno Tuning Results @ Croydon Racing Development


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Bugger :P Oh well... Don't exactly want to be riding around on iffy rubber with that car.

Better get that wheel alignment checked out too...

I was going to get a full JIC adjustable upper arms, lower arms, radius rods, etc for it, but didn't get to it before you stole the car.

Perhaps a Whiteline adjustable bushes kit in the meantime would help?

Hi guys,

Many q's to answer so bear with me...

- boost is set @ 23psi

- afr's is a consistent 12:1

- standard bottom end

the cars response on the street?

i have obviously selected top end delivery turbos which dictates my setup, mid range does not hold high boost but it is totally driveable, really starts pushing @ around 4500rpm then absolutely cracks from 5000rpm-8500rpm...if you are after bottom end power you're much better off with a v8!

there is no 'wobbling' in the power delivery, the curve looks as it is because when it was on full song the car was literally dancing on the 4 wheel rollers.

(correct me if i'm wrong please Jim)

the car is running r34 wheels (18inch) i measured this with the 16inch r32 wheels & they are about 1inch taller in overall height.

Paul (dirtgarage) i did take Jim's advice as gospel & changed the boost controller to the blitz sbc1diii (dual solenoid) last week.

I don't have a dyno graph with y-axis thats displays speed, I will ask Jim for this though.

$400 is what I paid additional to CRD for an extra 100Nm of torque, you tell me if that was a worthwhile exercise (i.e. adjusting the cam gears)

Yes it is over $1000 for a dyno tune & cam gear adjustment with CRD in comparison to $800 for a road & dyno tune - why would anyone with common sense bother...

Merli - if Jim wants to change the oil & spark plugs there is obviously a very good reason for this, as you stated when a gtr is making this kind of power it does become a 'highly strung' power plant, taking short cuts here would bite you hard.

I don't know why ppl think CRD is out there to rip others off, an expert service reaps a larger cost & a fantastic result...use the analogy of wanting to buy a 4 bedroom home for the price of a 2 bedder, the only way you will get this is if the house is totally run down & poorly maintained.

YOU PAY FOR WHAT YOU GET, SIMPLE AS THAT!!!

I've been stung twice before, now thankfully I have found a workshop that I can trust & feel comfortable with.

Regards,

Marko.

sounds like a good result all round mate. BTW on the graph, one with Y axis showing RPM was what I was interested in :P (the one above shows speed already).

like I said it has good top end punch, and if that's what you wanted, you should be stoked :)

Guest DIRTgarage
Hi guys,

Many q's to answer so bear with me...

 

- boost is set @ 23psi

- afr's is a consistent 12:1

- standard bottom end

 

the cars response on the street?  

i have obviously selected top end delivery turbos which dictates my setup, mid range does not hold high boost but it is totally driveable, really starts pushing @ around 4500rpm then absolutely cracks from 5000rpm-8500rpm...if you are after bottom end power you're much better off with a v8!

 

there is no 'wobbling' in the power delivery, the curve looks as it is because when it was on full song the car was literally dancing on the 4 wheel rollers.

(correct me if i'm wrong please Jim)

 

the car is running r34 wheels (18inch) i measured this with the 16inch r32 wheels & they are about 1inch taller in overall height.

 

Paul (dirtgarage) i did take Jim's advice as gospel & changed the boost controller to the blitz sbc1diii (dual solenoid) last week.

 

I don't have a dyno graph with y-axis thats displays speed, I will ask Jim for this though.

 

$400 is what I paid additional to CRD for an extra 100Nm of torque, you tell me if that was a worthwhile exercise (i.e. adjusting the cam gears)

Yes it is over $1000 for a dyno tune & cam gear adjustment with CRD in comparison to $800 for a road & dyno tune - why would anyone with common sense bother...

 

Merli - if Jim wants to change the oil & spark plugs there is obviously a very good reason for this, as you stated when a gtr is making this kind of power it does become a 'highly strung' power plant, taking short cuts here would bite you hard.

 

I don't know why ppl think CRD is out there to rip others off, an expert service reaps a larger cost & a fantastic result...use the analogy of wanting to buy a 4 bedroom home for the price of a 2 bedder, the only way you will get this is if the house is totally run down & poorly maintained.  

YOU PAY FOR WHAT YOU GET, SIMPLE AS THAT!!!

 

I've been stung twice before, now thankfully I have found a workshop that I can trust & feel comfortable with.

 

Regards,

Marko.

Congrats Marko....i wont say i told you so.

ahh sh1t ive just said it.

Hi guys,

Many q's to answer so bear with me...

 

- boost is set @ 23psi

- afr's is a consistent 12:1

- standard bottom end

 

the cars response on the street?  

i have obviously selected top end delivery turbos which dictates my setup, mid range does not hold high boost but it is totally driveable, really starts pushing @ around 4500rpm then absolutely cracks from 5000rpm-8500rpm...if you are after bottom end power you're much better off with a v8!

 

there is no 'wobbling' in the power delivery, the curve looks as it is because when it was on full song the car was literally dancing on the 4 wheel rollers.

(correct me if i'm wrong please Jim)

 

the car is running r34 wheels (18inch) i measured this with the 16inch r32 wheels & they are about 1inch taller in overall height.

 

Paul (dirtgarage) i did take Jim's advice as gospel & changed the boost controller to the blitz sbc1diii (dual solenoid) last week.

 

I don't have a dyno graph with y-axis thats displays speed, I will ask Jim for this though.

 

$400 is what I paid additional to CRD for an extra 100Nm of torque, you tell me if that was a worthwhile exercise (i.e. adjusting the cam gears)

Yes it is over $1000 for a dyno tune & cam gear adjustment with CRD in comparison to $800 for a road & dyno tune - why would anyone with common sense bother...

 

Merli - if Jim wants to change the oil & spark plugs there is obviously a very good reason for this, as you stated when a gtr is making this kind of power it does become a 'highly strung' power plant, taking short cuts here would bite you hard.

 

I don't know why ppl think CRD is out there to rip others off, an expert service reaps a larger cost & a fantastic result...use the analogy of wanting to buy a 4 bedroom home for the price of a 2 bedder, the only way you will get this is if the house is totally run down & poorly maintained.  

YOU PAY FOR WHAT YOU GET, SIMPLE AS THAT!!!

 

I've been stung twice before, now thankfully I have found a workshop that I can trust & feel comfortable with.

 

Regards,

Marko.

So when are you off to WSID??

'Beer Baron'...

i'll ask Jim for this dyno graph.

Paul 'Dirt Garage'...

how can I forget the phone call after my 1st post when i opened a can of worms with which tuner do i select :P

Marko.

Merli - if Jim wants to change the oil & spark plugs there is obviously a very good reason for this

That's quite a leap of faith there Marko... That statement requires an unwavering belief that everything said workshop suggests is completely in the customer's best interests. I can assure you that whilst it is probably OPTIMAL to change oil and spark plugs every single time you start the car, it is UNNECESSARY.

Just like it was unnecessary to change the brand new NGK Plat spark plugs when I brought in my car for tuning. New ones were put in when the engine was built, and changed AGAIN after initial 5 hour bedding-in, and AGAIN after 2000km run-in.

as you stated when a gtr is making this kind of power it does become a 'highly strung' power plant, taking short cuts here would bite you hard.

Agreed, but labelling not changing the oil and spark plugs before EVERY dyno tune a "shortcut" is quite an over-reaching statement. It is not necessary if your oil was changed less than 5000kms earlier, and your spark plugs are still in perfect condition. Changing them just for the hell of it, "to be safe" is really just another way to drive up the profit margins of a given workshop. Not always, but in my case it was unnecessary.

I don't know why ppl think CRD is out there to rip others off, an expert service reaps a larger cost & a fantastic result...

I never claimed that they were "there to rip others off". You again over-reached to come to that conclusion.

But since you seem to want an example:

When I brought my GTR in for tuning after the engine build, I was told that Jim has 95% tuned the car, but not dialed the cam gears in. That would be done after the 2000km run-in period. They asked me to pay for the tuning in full now ($1800 - I didn't complain AT ALL) and was told that when I brought it back after the run-in period, I would just have to pay $500 for dialing in the cam gears. The $1800 I paid now would cover Jim cleaning up the tuning to make sure it handled more boost and final power runs. I was happy with that, and paid gratefully for their good work.

When I came back, they carried out great work as usual, but slapped me with a $1400 bill for minimal tuning corrections and cam gear adjustment. They completely denied that I had previously paid for the tuning in full and all I had to pay for was the cam-gear dialing in, as per previously agreed upon.

COMPLETELY DENIED IT.

That's right, they wanted to charge me $3200 for bedding in the engine, tuning it and final power runs. Draw your own conclusions.

NEVER have I bad mouthed CRD. I consider Jim a mate, and he has tuned many of my previous cars PERFECTLY. I have never had any bad experiences with their work, it has ALWAYS been 100% top notch. All I'm saying is that I hope you have DEEP DEEP pockets, because you certaintly pay for their expertise.

yes 23psi is big boost but i have accomodated this with a metal head gasket to drop compression.

Jim tuned it to what he called a 'safe boost' for my engine & setup...being an Australian delivered it is mechanically healthy & strong.

That's quite a leap of faith there Marko... That statement requires an unwavering belief that everything said workshop suggests is completely in the customer's best interests. I can assure you that whilst it is probably OPTIMAL to change oil and spark plugs every single time you start the car, it is UNNECESSARY.

Just like it was unnecessary to change the brand new NGK Plat spark plugs when I brought in my car for tuning. New ones were put in when the engine was built, and changed AGAIN after initial 5 hour bedding-in, and AGAIN after 2000km run-in.  

Agreed, but labelling not changing the oil and spark plugs before EVERY dyno tune a "shortcut" is quite an over-reaching statement. It is not necessary if your oil was changed less than 5000kms earlier, and your spark plugs are still in perfect condition. Changing them just for the hell of it, "to be safe" is really just another way to drive up the profit margins of a given workshop. Not always, but in my case it was unnecessary.

 

I never claimed that they were "there to rip others off". You again over-reached to come to that conclusion.

But since you seem to want an example:

When I brought my GTR in for tuning after the engine build, I was told that Jim has 95% tuned the car, but not dialed the cam gears in. That would be done after the 2000km run-in period. They asked me to pay for the tuning in full now ($1800 - I didn't complain AT ALL) and was told that when I brought it back after the run-in period, I would just have to pay $500 for dialing in the cam gears. The $1800 I paid now would cover Jim cleaning up the tuning to make sure it handled more boost and final power runs. I was happy with that, and paid gratefully for their good work.

When I came back, they carried out great work as usual, but slapped me with a $1400 bill for minimal tuning corrections and cam gear adjustment. They completely denied that I had previously paid for the tuning in full and all I had to pay for was the cam-gear dialing in, as per previously agreed upon.  

COMPLETELY DENIED IT.

That's right, they wanted to charge me $3200 for bedding in the engine, tuning it and final power runs. Draw your own conclusions.

NEVER have I bad mouthed CRD. I consider Jim a mate, and he has tuned many of my previous cars PERFECTLY. I have never had any bad experiences with their work, it has ALWAYS been 100% top notch. All I'm saying is that I hope you have DEEP DEEP pockets, because you certaintly pay for their expertise.

Well congrats marko great result....lets focus on the positive topic here rather than one persons bad experience...getting way offffff topic as per usual

sorry guys but the contention here seems to be between the BEL customers & the CRD customers LOL i seriously find this quite amusing :P

almost like the "falcadores race" (aka v8 supercars) with the rivalry between the holdens & fords...as long as we are all in the race we should be happy with that!

Lets not let it get out of control like my other post.

Marko.

Guest DIRTgarage
sorry guys but the contention here seems to be between the BEL customers & the CRD customers LOL i seriously find this quite amusing :P

almost like the "falcadores race" (aka v8 supercars) with the rivalry between the holdens & fords...as long as we are all in the race we should be happy with that!

 

Lets not let it get out of control like my other post.

 

Marko.

Just a bit of friendly banter Marko...nothing more!

Now get out there and chop em!

hey mate great results!!! I am stoked to see the power it is making!!!

out of interest, what cam timing did you end up at? I do think that the GT-RS benefit from cam timing, I am unsure about the benefit for my turbos.....

I still have to do a dyno run (once I have a jim berry clutch fitted!) then its up to 1.4 BAR....

Merli, you had GT-SS and 260 260 9.15 poncams right? what boost and cam timing did you use?

oh and to pour cold water on the fire, BEL and CRD are both good tuners, and will of course do a good job! there is always more than one way to skin a cat ;)

ciao

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