Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm investigating getting a PFC for a lightly modded R33. I.e. 10psi, R34 cooler, 3" full exhaust

Would a $300 tune get you safe power with better fuel consumption to stock??

I know it depends where you go but I'm just trying to ascertain how much on top of the PFC is needed for a good tune. I hear hitman does some good things.

Would 300 cover it???

I see no reason why people charge $400.

$300 is plenty. Thats almost 3hrs of dyno time.

I asked for a 1hr tune and paid $100 as a result, the RB20DET base mape was up and running with the rb30det within 1hr, the tune consisted of a little bit of light load afr's, WOT afr's and ignition timing.

I think a lot of workshops take their customers for a ride and charge them not for time but for a 'tune'.

Ask if they charge by time or for a 'tune', then.. Simply hang around like I do. ;)

I've since asked what it would be worth for a complete tune including new injectors fitted, bigger turbo and adjustable cam gears.

I was told $300 maybe $400 depending how quickly the sweet spot for the cam gears is found.

For a mild rb25 with stock injectors & turbo there's no reason why a tune would take more than 1hr.

In all honesty, you probably won't get better fuel economy than stock for light load cruising, that is being stock fuel economy is around 430-500km's per tank.

WOT no doubt it will use less fuel, but you will be making more power so it cancels out. :)

If your under the stock light load cruise economy now you have issues else where in the car.

I have been to the HITMAN and must say I thought Matt was pretty good. her certainly has all the right equipment (including a dyno) and seems to know what he's on about.

I say give him a shot.

I see no reason why people charge $400.

 

$300 is plenty. Thats almost 3hrs of dyno time.

It's pure economics.

People charge what the market will bear.

The way I look at it, you're asking for someone to much around with the unit that can blow your engine.

That's a big responsibility and it takes time to know cars, RB motors and ECU.

If you want a no b/s charge by the hour... go to UAS - fixed rate per hour dyno tuning.

You can also try some of the road tuners like BEL, Hitman.

T.

RPM used to charge $125 3 years ago.

Shaun (Boostworxs) charges $110 an hour.

Tilbrooks, I have no idea, they wanted $600 for a tune, they do have the PFC software so I would expect they will get the tune done quickly BUT they are able to fiddle with a few more options that the h/c doesn't have access to.

FROM UAS website

"DYNO TUNING - $140/HOUR

APEXI POWER FC TUNING - $590.00

Dyno time for diagnosis, tuning or tidy up tune of aftermarket computers and controllers if engine is modified, for example tuning Super AFC etc.

Our Apexi Power FC full tune includes part throttle, cold start and final road tune using Pro Tuner, knock sensor and Bosch Air Fuel Ratio meter and includes setting boost or multiple boost settings"

Sounds pretty thorough but $590 for a fairly stock car seems a lot. Might ask them or try Hitman etc...

Can I ask why you want to run an FC on a 'fairly stock car'?

T.

Because 33's run stupid rich at the top end, i assume.

Plus it gives a good base to work off when installing more mods at a later date.

from my experience Ben at UAS certainly seems to know what he's doing. I also thought the hitman was very good. BOTH places have the laptop software, and both have 2WD dynos.

Mate, I would ring them up and see which one you like, or see who is closer to you. personally I reckon they will both do a pretty good job.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...