Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy,

Just had the car tuned recently, and its making more power obviously.

With my 2 way diff, you can feel the rear end move around now.

I need advice on how to stiffen the rear....

Do I replace the bushes with std ones, or go the Noltec urethane ones?

How much NVH does the urethane ones add to the car? Car is mainly a road car with some track work intended in the future.

Which "pineapples" do people suggest - the alloy ones, or the other urethane ones?

Im thinking of going for the Noltec, with the alloy mounts but dont want the ride to become a rattle box.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78479-sub-frame-movement/
Share on other sites

get alloy subframe spacers/pineapples. They apparently make a huge difference, no more axle tramp!!

There is a thread on them on http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...showtopic=84489 a couple of people mentioned u don't get much more drivetrain noise

IMO i woudn't bother with the urethane ones, i'd just go straight to the alloy ones. I have some ready to go into my car, just c.b.f'd installing them.

What sort of track work? drift??

(If you want to buy a set, PM me)

I dont have axle tramp at all suprisingly. I wanna replace the mounts first, then move onto

these alloy pineapples....

Car is mostly street driven, with the odd track in the future. No drift, just circuit :( Maybe drags if i feel like having a number....(pmk me what you can get them for :))

cheers.

go the alloy pinapples. urethane ones require new bushes to be fitted for best handling. alloy ones squash everything up and make it so it cant move.

i have the alloy ones, they made a huge difference, i set them up for drift and could instantly feel the difference when sliding....the back end hangs out alot longer and easier.

cheers

Linton

ohh, i'm gonna get off my arse and put mine in..... my rear end is crap coz of soft coilovers. I just put a rear strut brace in and it makes a big difference for drift, this should make it even better.

in fact, if you don't have one, i'd also suggest a rear strut tower brace

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=77338

hi, ive got the noltec subframe bushes( not pineapples) in my car and I dont notice any increase in road noise/ harshness at all.

I also have new rear rack and hub bushes(nissan rubber) - done after subframe bushes fitted - so everything is pretty much new and tight and still dont feel any harshness at all. The car really holds the line well in the rear now, more noticeable improvement after doing rear rack and hub bushes than that felt when the subframe bushes were fitted first. Feels more positive on the track also, showing up the failings of my tyres as they do the squirming under load rather than the old subframe bushes that wiggled the car around corners!

A mate has noltec subframe bushes in his 32 GTR and I havent noticed any change in noise/ harshness.

hi, ive got the noltec subframe bushes( not pineapples) in my car and I dont notice any increase in road noise/ harshness at all.  

I also have new rear rack and hub bushes(nissan rubber) - done after subframe bushes fitted - so everything is pretty much new and tight and still dont feel any harshness at all. The car really holds the line well in the rear now, more noticeable improvement after doing rear rack and hub bushes than that felt when the subframe bushes were fitted first.  Feels more positive on the track also, showing up the failings of my tyres as they do the squirming under load rather than the old subframe bushes that wiggled the car around corners!

A mate has noltec subframe bushes in his 32 GTR and I havent noticed any change in noise/ harshness.

What is the difference between subframe bushes and pineapples.I was under the impression that they were one and the same,just given different names by different people.

as gts4diehard is saying.. rear rack ends are probably a good idea to replace too if you're doing the subframe bushes, as they will firm up the rear, and stop some movement there as well.

as pointed out by the suspension place I got the work done, even if you lock the HICAS.. you still have something decent on the ends to hold it in place :)

Made a bit of a difference in mine at higher speeds with a firmer feel

Replacement bushes (alloy or polyurethane) are NOT the same as "pineapples".

Replacement bushes simply replace the standard rubber bushes with a firmer (hardness) material. In the case of aluminium that is solid, which is not a good idea as it can lead to cracking of the subframe mounts. Nissan designed the rubber bushes to prevent this and to lower the NVH. Polyurethane is a good mid ground, it is much firmer than rubber (45 versus 90 duro) but it has some give to keep the NVH within reason and to prevent the chassis cracking under the vibration.

Pinapples are "tuning" device, by placing them above and/or below the subframe you can tune the amount of antisquat. More squat for drags gives better traction and faster launch. Lots of antisquat for drift to decrease the traction and enables easy/earlier slide.

Pineapples do add a worthhwhile amount of extra rigidity when used with the standard rubbers. But they make no difference to rigidity when used with aluminium bushes and very little difference when used with polyurethane bushes.

Hope that helps ;)

Nissan don't supply replacement subframe bushes.

They said they are not servicable.

its the same for even their Aus released cars. 300zx etc, no supply. :)

I think Nismo make "hardness up" rubber bushes:cheers:

Pineapples still sound like a goer with a whiteline kit.Ie:the extra urethane bushes that come with the kit.

But then would it or would it not show up the weak links in the cars handling.Like the tyres.

Is the 1degree +/- camber for the front,supplied in the whiteline kit as an extra,enough for most spirited weekend drivers.Or would stock camber up front suffice.

Pineapples still sound like a goer with a whiteline kit.Ie:the extra urethane bushes that come with the kit.

1. But then would it or would it not show up the weak links in the cars handling.Like the tyres.

2. Is the 1degree +/- camber for the front,supplied in the whiteline kit as an extra,enough for most spirited weekend drivers.

3. Or would stock camber up front suffice.

Hi Trust33;

1. The weakest link is always the weakest link, but there is no doubt that more contact patch from less roll will help any tyre.

2. When you lower them they end up at 1 to 1.5 degrees negative anyway, then add the Whiteline adjusters and you usually get 2.5 degrees negative. Which is not a bad place to start

3. Nope

:D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
    • There is a warning that "this thread is super old" but they ignore that anyway...
    • With 10% Ethanol, we're talking 2-3% fuel consumption difference. The emissions reductions and octane boost in my opinion far outweigh this almost non existent loss.    My tanks sitting at 80%. Luckily that should go down fast as I'm on vacation again for the next two weeks. 
×
×
  • Create New...