Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

basically you just have to tighten up your aftermarket blow off valve.. or put a plate inbetween your stock blow off valve... or for that fact even remove it and just put a plateover the hole to stop it from being plumbed back or vented... that way the air will have no where to go and ;)... go back through your turbo and out your pod lol... this then making the flutter noise... there are huge debates as to whether or not this royally ****s your turbo.. its know that its not "good" for your turbo, but has been settled upon that on low boost it isnt ogin to wreck your turbo, just perhalps shorten its life.

if you want a VL sounding flutter then you will probably want to get a front mount IC if you dont allready have one as it is said to enhance the flutter noise

ive currently got my stock welded over blow off valve on my car at the moment so i get the flutter... but i usually just have my stock unwelded one on there... just felt like a bit of a change last week :)

-Ruffels

no, it whistles. like Nfsu2, fast and the furious, etc

edit: but you can achieve it to a degree by winding down the spring ie making it tighter. this will cause "reversion" which will cause the chatter noise you are talking about. There is debate as to just how bad this is for your turbo... I think so long as you have air coming out of your BOV (ie turbo is still spinning forward), it's not too bad.

++++

Greetings All.

Oh...I thought the HKS SSQ BOV made this noise...?

Bugger...

Cheers Guys,

--Tonba

++++

SSQV is the perfect sound whistling is the best sound u can ever want to have =) I have it on my 33 and its the best, Supersonic type bov, that makes those Pssh sounds, sounds better on the WRX's.

hmmm hks ssqv sounds like a bird dying or getting sucked into the turbo or something, i don't like it hey.:whatsthat

for the, as you decribed it, perfect bov sound

1. buy a vl turbo

2. make sure its an auto

3. get the biggest bov you can find

4. get a fmic so everyone can see your cars turbo

5. get a pod filter

6. tighten the bov as much as possible

7. sit at traffic lights/pedestrian crossings/intersection and hold your foot on the accelerator and brake at the same time and then back off the accelerator.

8. look around to make sure everyone is looking at you

9. take off doing a sick one wheeler :burnout:

Disclaimer:This is not intended be provoking everyone with vl turbos, only the ones that do shit like this. :sly:

PS back to the point of the thread.

You can get the "fluttering" noise too if you have an external wastegate, different gates make different noises when you back off and some seem to make an almost fluttering noise as you describe.

The bov fluttering noise everyone says is bad as its reversion but my old 33 made the fluttering noise as i had no bov at all and the hks turbo on it had no shaft play last time i checked and still worked well.

Jamie

You can get the "fluttering" noise too if you have an external wastegate, different gates make different noises when you back off and some seem to make an almost fluttering noise as you describe.

*makes Cyph3r a badge that says "I have never heard an external wastegate in my life"*

wear it proudly my good man.

perhaps someone with an external wastegate that is open to atmo will see you with it and take you for a spin to let you hear the sound that an external wastegate dumping to atmo actually sounds like.

*makes Cyph3r a badge that says "I have never heard an external wastegate in my life"*

wear it proudly my good man.

perhaps someone with an external wastegate that is open to atmo will see you with it and take you for a spin to let you hear the sound that an external wastegate dumping to atmo actually sounds like.

lmfao *grabs the badge and pins it to my shirt*

i have definately heard one before mate, i wasn't talking about when it is wide open on full boost and it roars, i was talking about on gearchanges.

maybe its just my old car and my mates car that do it and all the rest in the world don't but they distinctly made a segmented rather then continuous noise. on my mates car you could hear the bov was continously open while the wastegate "sounded" like it opened and shut a few times.

Jamie

so describe this sound.. or record it and attach here.

it could just be that the bov wasn't able to vent enough.. and therefore even though it was venting everything it could, there was still some reversion through the turbo..

I really can't see how a wastegate that needs say 15psi of pressure to open could close and open on gearchanges.

I don't see how there can be fluctuating pressure in the exhaust manifold/turbine area during gearchanges which go from 0 to somehting above the spring pressure of the wastegate to cause it to open and shut.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...