Jump to content
SAU Community

GCG Hiflow Hybrid on R33 GTS-t

Bullant47
 Share

Recommended Posts

zoom Community Regular

zoom

Posted
Posted

Just got myself a 300zx single turbo! the rear turbine is slightly larger than r33gtst, however, the flange to the rear of the turbine and the wastegate seem to join to the dump pipe! :confused:

Ian, does the 300zx flange bolt up the stock pipe?

  • Replies 316
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

The 300zx/VLT turbine housing is fine to use.. Its not a simple bolt up, it requires a new dump pipe. :D

I know of a bloke making over 300rwkw using a VLT exhaust housing and some GT30 or 35 thing on his RB25DET with cams. I'm unsure exactly what comp wheel its running.

Bullant47 Community Regular

Bullant47

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Just got myself a 300zx single turbo! the rear turbine is slightly larger than r33gtst, however, the flange to the rear of the turbine and the wastegate seem to join to the dump pipe!  :confused:  

Ian, does the 300zx flange bolt up the stock pipe?

Hfi zoom, sounds like you might have a VL turbo with the waste gate integral with the dump. The VG30 bolts up to the stock dump normally.

Ian

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
The 300zx/VLT turbine housing is fine to use.. Its not a simple bolt up, it requires a new dump pipe. :D

 

I know of a bloke making over 300rwkw using a VLT exhaust housing and some GT30 or 35 thing on his RB25DET with cams. I'm unsure exactly what comp wheel its running.

Now i am confused :confused:

When i posted if i could use a VL turbo ext. housing, i thought i read that the housing is not as big as the VG30 housing.

So what are the specs for the VL turbo ext. housing?

I know i will need a new dump pipe; not a problem.

Will the std. oil and water lines fit?

Any other mods required?

Please help as i am about to take my car to the mechanic and like to do this while i am getting cams and head work done.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

The VLT Exhaust housing is around the .63.

From my understanding the Z31 300ZX turbo has the same hot side but runs a crappy small comp and turbine wheel.

I've attached a pic of a VLT 550hp highflow turbo.

Unsure on the exact specs but it was apparently a little laggy on the rb30et.

zoom Community Regular

zoom

Posted
Posted
Hfi zoom, sounds like you might have a VL turbo with the waste gate integral with the dump. The VG30 bolts up to the stock dump normally.

Ian

i was told by this guy that it's a 300zx turbo! Note taht the compressor side is quite small when comparing to r33!!

can anyone confirm that the waste gate integral with the dump is vl? :crazy:

zoom Community Regular

zoom

Posted
Posted
Hfi zoom, sounds like you might have a VL turbo with the waste gate integral with the dump. The VG30 bolts up to the stock dump normally.

Ian

the guy swear by it that it's came off the 300zx red engine single turbo 1988 model. The rear has 7 bolts which the same as "Cubes" attachment but the comp side seem similar but smaller!! :chairshot

Ian, what year is the 300zx you have got and it has the same exhaust flange to r33? :D

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Thats correct, it most probably is a turbo from a 300ZX.

The turbo you need is NOT the one from a 300ZX but rather Cima/Leopard VG30DET that made 190kw at the fly in factory form. From memory they are around the year of 1992+. The very late models apparently had the largest of the turbo's, i've unable to find out for sure as every one imports the older VG30DET's from around 1992.

The pics I attached previously was a VLT turbo.

As I said prior also they are similiar to the single turbo 300zx.

I've taken a few pics of my Cima/Leopard VG30DET Turbo.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

haha.. Sorry buddy.. Its going on the RB30DET.

The stock turbo doesn't suit the 3ltr at all. The power band is in completely the wrong area's. It pulls super hard from 2000-3500rpm then keeps pulling but not as intense, I then change up at 5k, reving just that bit more see's the next gear really suck as it drops the next gear out of accelerating power. :D

Come the new year I will machine up the exhaust housing to suit the GT30 600hp core. Hopefully it works well. I will obviously have a discussion with a few turbo specialists as the 600hp core 'may' flow too much air for the hot side to cope with creating surge etc.. Not something I want. :D

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

lol...

Patience is a virtue. One will show up.

I wouldn't ring the jap import places asking for a damaged one, I would personally go down there and check every individual turbo for stuffed bearings.

Then say.. oh this ones farked.. I'll give you $100 for the exh. housing.

zoom Community Regular

zoom

Posted
Posted
Thats correct, it most probably is a turbo from a 300ZX.

The turbo you need is NOT the one from a 300ZX but rather Cima/Leopard VG30DET that made 190kw at the fly in factory form. From memory they are around the year of 1992+. The very late models apparently had the largest of the turbo's, i've unable to find out for sure as every one imports the older VG30DET's from around 1992.

 

The pics I attached previously was a VLT turbo.

As I said prior also they are similiar to the single turbo 300zx.

 

I've taken a few pics of my Cima/Leopard VG30DET Turbo.

Cubes,

Thanks mate, it's alot clearer now. I think what i've got is the 300zx single turbo 1988 model. i should have ask him for the VG30det rather the 300zx single turbo as i understood! :crazy: ....

Angry Proficient

Angry

Posted
Posted

i believe i have a VG30 turbo .. but i still cant be sure .. i was told it was.. but i like to be 100% sure .... it looks very similar to the one cubes has pictured. but the rear wheel isnt steel like earlier VG30's .... much like Cubes Cima one again .... i was told it came from Justjap some months ago ..

i wanted to fit it to my rb20 .. but i cant get the bastard water lines undone... bent a 22mm spanner trying to undone the outer water line banjo bolt. aint that a bitch!

Bass Junky .. i might be willing to sell it if your REALLY struggling to find one ..

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

VG30 sucks on the RB20.. :cheers:

Very soft hitting boost and it doesn't really start pulling hard until at least 4k.

I had a vg30 turbo on my old rb20 some years ago. Only lasted a week before I got sick of it and threw the stocker back on again. Stocker running 1 bar was much more fun and quicker. Maybe not at 7000rpm but the difference was really stuff all.

Mid range and average power is where its at. not peaky crap.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...