Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Time I emptied the old tea bags and cleaned the spoons I think. lol.

Haha never noticed until you pointed it out Cubes :D

Thanks for the pics and measurments, this will aide those looking immensly.

Gary

  • Replies 316
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

ive got a hpinabox gt30 with 70comp cover and .63 a/r internally wastegated and it is actually put together by gcg turbos. as for power i got 260rwkws at 20 psi. now my engines is almost fully rebuilt with tomei pon cams i will let you know how it goes. please dont critisize a product that you havent even road tested.

Hi. This is directed at BigCarl, I tried to PM you but it said that your PM service was not setup & that you did not have permissions to PM???

Sorry, I know this is off topic a bit but I cant contact BigCarl any other way...

I noticed that you have a hybrid GT30 with the nissan RB exhaust housing. I wanted to ask you if you used the hpInABox oil/water kit?

I have just ordered the same turbo with the oil/water kit and was wondering if there was anything else that I would need to fit the lines? The guy at HpInABox said that the oil line should be fine but the water line on the engine side might not fit & that I would have to get a nother fitting for that side of the line.

Also did you use the waist gate actuator that they supply? If so how hard was it to modify to fit?

Any tips on fitting this turbo (from anyone) would be a great help.

Thanks in advance

Andrew....

Hi. This is directed at BigCarl, I tried to PM you but it said that your PM service was not setup & that you did not have permissions to PM???

Sorry, I know this is off topic a bit but I cant contact BigCarl any other way...

I noticed that you have a hybrid GT30 with the nissan RB exhaust housing. I wanted to ask you if you used the hpInABox oil/water kit?

I have just ordered the same turbo with the oil/water kit and was wondering if there was anything else that I would need to fit the lines? The guy at HpInABox said that the oil line should be fine but the water line on the engine side might not fit & that I would have to get a nother fitting for that side of the line.

Also did you use the waist gate actuator that they supply? If so how hard was it to modify to fit?

Any tips on fitting this turbo (from anyone) would be a great help.

Thanks in advance

Andrew....

yes purchased oil and water lines from hpiabox ,my mechanic used some fittings from standard turbo to fit waterlines. if i had my car id take some photos but still having new motor fitted and run in e.t.c. but could take some photos next week.

thanx cube, just is a real mission to find a turbo of the single T VG30 every wrecker on the coast that i have rang hasn't got one and says goodluck finding one, rare as rockin horse sh**

sweetr33, my brother's friend might have just the exh housing for the vg30 left in his garage but need to clean up to find it! if you really interested let me know. i will ask him!!

Thanks bigCarl:

I think I have it under control. If I can use fittings from the existing lines for the new lines then that would be great. What Did you do for the elbow out of the comp housing to the intercooler?

i used a ninety degree piece of 2.5 inch mandrel bent mild steel, utilising stock cooler pipeing and silicon hose. i think thay you can buy the ninety degree silicon hose but looks dodgy to me??? gcg sell it.

Thanks for all the info mate, putting her in this weekend :). I noticed that you said you were running 20psi, does that make the rubber piping from the AFM to your turbo suck inwards?? Or have you replaced it with a steel version?

How did you connect the 2.5 inch mandrel bend to the turbo, I dont think its 2.5 inchs?

Sorry about all the questions guys, I will stay on topic after this I promise ;)

i used a ninety degree piece of 2.5 inch mandrel bent mild steel, utilising stock cooler pipeing and silicon hose. i think thay you can buy the ninety degree silicon hose but looks dodgy to me??? gcg sell it.

Seems that for all the time and trouble a TT conversion is so much easier......unless a turbo lunches itself and eats the front 3 cylinders. Also works out to about the same cost for a diy job.

I've measured the Comp wheel and taken pictures.

From my measurements (not really sure what to measure) the smaller top part of the comp wheel measured up at 46mm.

The larger bottom part of the comp wheel measured up at 63mm.

That would make the wheel a 53.3trim?

Trim = ((inducer)squared / (exducer)squared) X 100

Does garret list specs for this wheel?

The closest I can find to a 53trim is a TO4 54trim?

I will have a bit more of a look when I get some more time.

Nobody has them, and is they do, they want $600 for them

They were ~$250 until :) SOMEONE :angry: blabbed about how useful they were and then the price went up. :angry:

At least this time it wasn't me, unlike the R32GTST wastegate actuators, they used to be ~free until I opened my big mouth. :D

:angry: cheers :angry:

Thanks for all the info mate, putting her in this weekend  :D. I noticed that you said you were running 20psi, does that make the rubber piping from the AFM to your turbo suck inwards?? Or have you replaced it with a steel version?

How did you connect the 2.5 inch mandrel bend to the turbo, I dont think its 2.5 inchs?

Sorry about all the questions guys, I will stay on topic after this I promise  :)

That pipe sucks in for me at under a bar.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...