Jump to content
SAU Community

New import GTR service

liber8_d

By liber8_d,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

liber8_d Collaborator

liber8_d

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, I will hopefully get my R32 GTR this week after 600 years waiting.

What should I be doing to it when I pick it up? Has about 120k kms on it. (unsure if timing belt replaced or not.)

Of course I'll do a full fluids change. And another change fairly soon depending on what the old stuff looks like. And oil filter and service/replace the pod filters.

I'll also be putting in new Iridium plugs, probably NGKs. And almost certainly replace the timing belt just to be sure.

What else should I do/get done to make sure its in good condition?

Should I take it to a mechanic and get compression/leak test done, or anything else?

I'll go right over it visually and try to find any faults I can of course, and maybe take it to Pedders or the like and get them to check it too.

Should I take it to a professional shop to get a full service or do it myself with my mates(I have a friend(best mate's dad) who is a Aircraft Engineer that is qualified as a motor mechanic and helps me out for low fees i.e. usually a case of Boag's)

Is there anything I'm forgetting, or anything else that you would recommend?

Just asking for advice from people who have been there before.

Thanks,

Mat

P.S. I did a search and found very little info on this topic, but I it wouldn't let me go more than 3 pages into history. If you want to have a go at me for not searching first, don't, just go read another post.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79074-new-import-gtr-service/
Share on other sites
lwells Grand Master

lwells

Posted
Posted

Does it have a remote oil filter? If not, get a workshop to do the engine oil swap and filter swap as its a bit of a pig.

All the other fluids are easy enough to replace, but set aside a fair whack of change as you should probably change:

  • Front and rear diffs
  • Gearbox
  • Transfer case
  • Powersteering
  • Radiator coolant
  • Brake coolant
  • Clutch (if you can be bothered)

Then there are all the consumables: brake pads, brake rotors, spark plugs (personally I'd get copper), etc. New air filter/pods is a good idea as most of the ones I have seen ex-Japan are filthy. Also look at changing your fuel filter and getting your injectors cleaned.

There are more, but I have a headache and that's all that comes to mind at the moment :(

Lucien.

NFAA32 Rising Star

NFAA32

Posted
Posted

brake coolant :s what the hell is that???

i would change every fluid. lucien mentioned them all also i would do the fuel filter, timing belt - why not upgrade water pump to n1 spec whilst doing this?, check all belts, (if not obvious that it has been done ie service history) my car will be in my hands i think in a week, and ill be doing that all, through a week(after work and on a saturday).

compression test is easy enough to do yourself(someone really should write a tutorial about it) and can be done when changing spark plugs.

maybe even drop it into nissan and get them to hook up consult to it(haha i work at nissan :( free use for me )

benm Grand Master

benm

Posted
Posted

Liber8: As Lwells has mentioned above. Sure you might be able to do many things at home by yourself on a weekend but an "Import Mechanic" can get the entire thing checked over with things you may not notice along with doing all that 'upfront' dirty work.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Rear subframe stay bracket bolt removal issues

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Great work! Give it a clean up with some Emery paper, and I'd run a thread die over the threads too to clean them up. It will make reinstall much easier, and also life easier for the next time it needs to come out.
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I'm not a fan of high humidity, it's one reason I don't mind being further inland out Ipswich, except the last 3 odd years, the drought broke, and it won't stop raining, which is making the humidity nearly unbearable when the rains are in during summer! For me, my body hates the cold, once the cold sets into my body, I'm totally screwed. I end up with severe muscle spasm in my back/shoulder muscles, and it feels like someone is trying to tear the muscles out. I have no issues with it getting stupid hot, so long as the humidity goes away. So the last 3 years as above, have been woeful! Ha ha. However, June 1st, and I'm only just converting from shorts and a tee, to long pants and a t shirt. And that's mainly as it's a bit wet and miserable and I wanted to work on a car.
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I much prefer colder weather to hot weather, and especially prefer cold to hot and humid, Goulburn does gets pretty warm in the hotter months, but, I've found the humidity there is not as painful as even Sydney, the humidity up north is to oppressing for this old rooster  In saying this, it does get rather "nippy" in Goulburn for early morning, late in the evening walks, but nothing that a layer or two, some thermal gloves, and a beanie doesn't fix to make it an enjoyable experience, which is much more bearable to me than the oppression of heat and humidity,  especially at night when your trying to sleep If I recall correctly, a "wise man" once said that the "Southern Tablelands" was gods country, and I will not argue that point with him for the fear of a "permaban" LOL In car part related news: My intake is currently in Botany getting processed for the last leg of its shipping journey to my door   
    • DatsunBanana
      Rear subframe stay bracket bolt removal issues

      By DatsunBanana · Posted

      Had a go at the stuck crush tube this afternoon. Tried things like grips and a chain wrench first but wouldn't just twist straight off. So got to work with a drill. Started small and kept a depth stop on to make sure I didn't drill into the bolt. Made a line of drill holes all the way up and enlarged them. Then a combination of chisel and Dremel to split it all the way up. Levered the split to get oil in there and eventually it gave a bit while levering. Worked it back and forth with loads more oil till it was spinning freely, then with grips I could work it downwards and off. And no significant damage to the bolt (not by me anyway - just the 27 years of rust)
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
×
×
  • Create New...