Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

Okay here is the story I have put a deposit on the skyline below, it got into Brisbane on Monday 29th June, the dealer selling it didn't know much about the car when it was in Japan, he told me it was a stock car (he deals with import trucks not sports cars). Below is what was advertised.

Nissan - Skyline R32 GTS-t

Fuel type: Petrol

Engine: 6 cylinder - 2.0L

Transmission: Manual

Intercooler Turbo

Year: 1990

Kms: 38,000

Condition: Immaculate

Colour: Black Metallic

Price: $16,990

Special: $14,990 Plus On Road Costs

Immaculate conditioned R32 Skyline coupe with all the trimmings.

VEHICLE FEATURES

Air Conditioning, Power Steering, Central locking, Electric Mirrors, Power Windows, Alloy Wheels.

We made a deal at $13,500 including ORC (12 month rego, new re-spray, service, compliance and new wheels). It has also had a RACQ Mechanical check a couple of days ago.

When he got it into Brisbane it had a few modifications:

- Adjustable Wastegate

- Exhaust

- Suspension

- Boost controller (under stereo)

- Air Filter

- Strut brace (don’t know what that is???)

What do you think??? Is it worth it???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79100-what-do-you-think-r32-gts-t/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ask the dealer for the compliance or auction certificate. Cause it sounds too cheap for what it is and has. Sometimes they weld two cars together front cut and back cut after somebody has just about written them off. But the auction certificate will tell whats happened to the car and if he says he doesnt have it or wasnt givin it then maybe they could be hiding something just be careful. Other than that you might have found a beaut car for a great price.

yeh.. 38 thou.. does seem very low for a 1990...

i bought mine with 69xxx - complete with log books and history and all the papers, paid a bit more but its all genuine.

interior seems to have little wear and tear (easily upholstered)

agree with r32skyline_89: ask him for all the papers/certificates and the history of the car, log books if available, etc

i'm with Beau - the volks look pretty good...

btw, strut brace is a metal (brace :mad:) which usually goes over the top of the engine bay from strut to strut, stiffens the chassis, can get rear ones too.

also looks like a GTST-M spec R32.. from thefront bar.. wonder if the re-spray would be a good one or a cheapie .. id dig into it to find out more sounds too cheap ! plus u got a electronic boost controller worth 400 bucks 2nd hand exhust around 700 2nd hand strut braces make a great handling improvement . worth around 100 2nd hand .. etc.. clearly you did score a bargin

nice car, but yeah the K's are definitely dodgy

38000K's over 15 years is only 2500k's per year which is just not feasible, especially a car that has been modified a little.

When you have a look tomorrow, look at the odometer and if the numbers do not line up EXACTLY then you can be sure that it has been wound back.

Doesn't mean it's a bad car though, I would however get a 100 thousand K service done it as soon as you get it.

gavin woods autotech know what they are on about.

one thing to remember is in japan a lot of cars arnt used as daily drivers, however what gordon said is correct, take the car and have a 100 tho service as soon as you get it, that way you know everything is up to date (ie timing belt, water pump ect) this kinda service isnt cheap, but its cheaper in the long run.

also get whatever mechanic to perform a compression test and a leakdown test on the engine, these 2 will tell you if there is anything majorly wrong with the engine iirc.

gavin woods autotech know what they are on about.

one thing to remember is in japan a lot of cars arnt used as daily drivers, however what gordon said is correct, take the car and have a 100 tho service as soon as you get it, that way you know everything is up to date (ie timing belt, water pump ect)  this kinda service isnt cheap, but its cheaper in the long run.

also get whatever mechanic to perform a compression test and a leakdown test on the engine, these 2 will tell you if there is anything majorly wrong with the engine iirc.

Thanks. Do you know of any good (doesn't really matter about the $$$) Mechanic on the GC, I have been ringing the Nissan Mech’s but they don’t really do the Imports so… If anyone has a Mechanic they would like to recommend that would be a big help.

one thing to remember is in japan a lot of cars arnt used as daily drivers, however what gordon said is correct

:D I didn't say that, chris did.. but I do agree with that too :(

I am sure gavin wood would give the car a good check over and thumbs up or down.. he has probably seeen more skylines than trees.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...