Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 year later...

Hi guys I've just finished installing a Driftworks oil cooler kit with Mocal core and thermostatic sandwich plate in my R34.

It looks like I might have an issue, I just did a long drive on the freeway and can't get the oil temp up, it's sitting between 55 and 60. Water is sitting at 80, Defi gauges.

I can think of a couple of causes:

1. Maybe the thermo pellet in the sandwich plate is not working and the cooler circuit is stuck open? Trying the core by hand it's hot but not unbearable.

2. I previously had the Defi temp sensor in a separate sandwich plate with oil flowing through it. For this install the workshop removed the factory pressure sensor and teed off that point - is it possible that the temp reading is inaccurate when it's measured at a 'dead end'?

Any ideas welcome, thanks guys!

Hi guys I've just finished installing a Driftworks oil cooler kit with Mocal core and thermostatic sandwich plate in my R34.

It looks like I might have an issue, I just did a long drive on the freeway and can't get the oil temp up, it's sitting between 55 and 60. Water is sitting at 80, Defi gauges.

I can think of a couple of causes:

1. Maybe the thermo pellet in the sandwich plate is not working and the cooler circuit is stuck open? Trying the core by hand it's hot but not unbearable.

2. I previously had the Defi temp sensor in a separate sandwich plate with oil flowing through it. For this install the workshop removed the factory pressure sensor and teed off that point - is it possible that the temp reading is inaccurate when it's measured at a 'dead end'?

Any ideas welcome, thanks guys!

try cover up the core with cardboard so there's no airflow.. see if it stablises around water temperature (provided you still run the OEM heat exchanger)

try cover up the core with cardboard so there's no airflow.. see if it stablises around water temperature (provided you still run the OEM heat exchanger)

Cheers Johnny I'll try that.

Driving a couple of k's from cold start you can feel the oil cooler feed hose getting warm whilst return stays cool. I wonder is this means that the thermostat is not working?

possible and it sounds your oil cooler is chilling it

however there should be some flow when cold to constantly flow oil through the core (however much less than at operating temp)

possible and it sounds your oil cooler is chilling it

however there should be some flow when cold to constantly flow oil through the core (however much less than at operating temp)

Yep that's what I thought.

I'm still not a 100% sure about the new temp sensor location, it's sitting about 5cm out from the block at the end of a T fitting so it might be reading low too.

Hi guys I've just finished installing a Driftworks oil cooler kit with Mocal core and thermostatic sandwich plate in my R34.

It looks like I might have an issue, I just did a long drive on the freeway and can't get the oil temp up, it's sitting between 55 and 60. Water is sitting at 80, Defi gauges.

I can think of a couple of causes:

1. Maybe the thermo pellet in the sandwich plate is not working and the cooler circuit is stuck open? Trying the core by hand it's hot but not unbearable.

2. I previously had the Defi temp sensor in a separate sandwich plate with oil flowing through it. For this install the workshop removed the factory pressure sensor and teed off that point - is it possible that the temp reading is inaccurate when it's measured at a 'dead end'?

Any ideas welcome, thanks guys!

I had a similar issue when I first installed my oil cooler.

What I eventually found was that my temperature sensor was on the wrong side of the sandwich plate. I initially had it on the side after the cooler, when it should have been on the hot engine side.

Reason it should be on the hot side is that you can see how much your oil has cooked after coming out of the engine.

  • Like 1

possible and it sounds your oil cooler is chilling it

however there should be some flow when cold to constantly flow oil through the core (however much less than at operating temp)

I had a similar issue when I first installed my oil cooler.

What I eventually found was that my temperature sensor was on the wrong side of the sandwich plate. I initially had it on the side after the cooler, when it should have been on the hot engine side.

Reason it should be on the hot side is that you can see how much your oil has cooked after coming out of the engine.

Thanks guys.

Here's how the sensor is sitting, I'm pretty sure that's the OEM oil pressure sensor location:

24160402470_0ab647bd3b.jpg

The other end of the T-piece is currently blank waiting for the Defi pressure sensor.

I'm thinking of swapping the two so that the temp sensor is closer to the block but I'm not sure if it's still going to give me as accurate a reading as when it was sitting in its own sandwich plate...?

...

EDIT: Did a long distance drive back to Melbourne today, the Defis were reading a consistent 60C for oil and 80C for water. Ambient temp 25C.

So the oil was a little warmer than on the way down when the ambient temp was just under 20C.

Edited by V28VX37

I spoke with a Mocal supplier earlier today and they asked a really good question - is it possible that the factory R34 oil pressure sensor is after the filter, not before?

Because if that's the case my Defi is currently reading the temperature of the oil coming back from the cooler, not the oil going out.

Can anybody confirm or deny? See below for a photo of the factory oil/water cooler, with the pressure sensor on the left:

oeoc1.jpg

  • 9 months later...
On 18/01/2016 at 8:40 PM, V28VX37 said:

Here's how the sensor is sitting, I'm pretty sure that's the OEM oil pressure sensor location:

24160402470_0ab647bd3b.jpg

The other end of the T-piece is currently blank waiting for the Defi pressure sensor.

Firstly, a long piece of brass like this is going to pull heat when air is flowing past it, so you aren't going to get a true reading of your oil temperature.  What you have here would only be measuring heat conduction of the oil housing and the associated stagnant oil.  Mounting your pressure sensor on something like this is OK, but mounting the temperature is going to give false readings.  Be wary of vibration on long brass fittings like this.  They can crack and then you have oil everywhere and a seized engine.  This could explain your low readings.

Secondly, you aren't going to get oil reaching the sensor that is a true representation of engine oil temperature.  You want the temperature sensor to be mounted as close to the oil running past it as possible. 

Regarding your other post:

IMHO you should be measuring the temperature of the oil before the oil cooler.  You want to know the oil temperature of the oil as it comes out of the engine after doing all the work.  If it's hot, it's hot regardless if you have the cooler working or not. 

  • Like 1
Firstly, a long piece of brass like this is going to pull heat when air is flowing past it, so you aren't going to get a true reading of your oil temperature.  What you have here would only be measuring heat conduction of the oil housing and the associated stagnant oil.  Mounting your pressure sensor on something like this is OK, but mounting the temperature is going to give false readings.  Be wary of vibration on long brass fittings like this.  They can crack and then you have oil everywhere and a seized engine.  This could explain your low readings.
Secondly, you aren't going to get oil reaching the sensor that is a true representation of engine oil temperature.  You want the temperature sensor to be mounted as close to the oil running past it as possible. 
Regarding your other post:
IMHO you should be measuring the temperature of the oil before the oil cooler.  You want to know the oil temperature of the oil as it comes out of the engine after doing all the work.  If it's hot, it's hot regardless if you have the cooler working or not. 

Thanks mate, I got it all sorted and documented in this other thread: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462362-oil-cooler-too-eager-faulty-thermostat-or-incorrect-temp-sensor-location/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...