Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

to all r32 skyline owners of Queensland

Dr Drift is coming to brisbane in august to tune a few cars and if any other owners want their cars remapped let me know to book them in.

Great oppertunity to have a remap done by someone who knows his stuff.

if you are keen let me know as only one or two more can be done in the time we have on the dyno.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79369-dr-drift-is-coming-to-brisbane/
Share on other sites

David - Price for your A31? Nearly finished decoding the data for them.... Is it factory A31 Silver Top loom and ECU or has it been converted using R32 stuff??

Colin - Long time ago hey.... I've learnt heaps more since then too...

Gordon - Hope QLD's treating you well.... What car are you driving these days?

Dan - Still working on R34 as per R34 thread, at the moment have the ability to tune the fuel and ignition tables, cortesy of Darkhalf. By leaning out the top end it will efectively increase the boost cut threshold, but not remove it. Still unsure of speed cut's etc... I may look at coming up again a couple of months later, so hopefully it should be done by then...

Michael - Can do the GTR no probs.... looking at $300 + plus dyno time, would prefer to modify the ECU prior to coming up, will help maximise use of dyno on the day(s).

Date to be confirmed is either 19th - 22nd, or 27th - 29th....

Sam.

PS: If anyone has any specific questions about their car and coming along, please feel free to e-mail me and see what we can work out....

David - Price for your A31? Nearly finished decoding the data for them.... Is it factory A31 Silver Top loom and ECU or has it been converted using R32 stuff??

Colin - Long time ago hey.... I've learnt heaps more since then too...

Gordon - Hope QLD's treating you well.... What car are you driving these days?

Its a 1990 rb20, engine and computer. Or so it says on the ecu anyway. Whats rough pricing??? I know its a cheap mod, but atm I got the gearbox to do, so cheap compaired to putting up with it might be a good option.

Dave - What mods? Fairly simple I'm assuming if you're still running stock maps..... probably just plug the map in and give it a power run, max 1 hour dyno time....

Smoothline - ahh the good 'ol days.... have to catch up when I'm up there...

Gordon - Hope QLD's treating you well.... What car are you driving these days?

QLD is great, other than the occasional flood :) I've got an R32 now.. just got the basics at the moment.. Would be pushing it.. but its possible I may have time before end of August to stick the highflow rb25 on there and some GTR injectors.. would be nice to get it tuned with all that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...