Jump to content
SAU Community

How Safe Is 1.0 Bar

BNR

By BNR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

BNR Enthusiast

BNR

Posted
Posted

hey

ive seen in magazines that on the r32 GTR you can take out some kind of marbel in one of the boost pipes and its ment to rise the boost to 1.0 bar.

how safe is this to do if the rest of your car is just stock with a cat back exhaust ?

im thinking of doing it because its free ! but i dont know if it will damage the motor in any way

whats everyone think ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79627-how-safe-is-10-bar/
Share on other sites
lwells Grand Master

lwells

Posted
Posted

Bit of misinformation in this thread IMHO.

There is a boost restrictor in one of the vacuum hoses. Yes, you can remove it and its unlikely to damage your engine. However, you may well manage to destroy a turbo or two given they have ceramic exhaust wheels and are probably getting on for 15-years old.

Plus you can be unlucky and have bits of the exhaust wheel sucked back in to the engine which will then probably need a complete rebuild.

Lucien.

itbmils Proficient

itbmils

Posted
Posted

OK

I did mine too - and yes it was MUCH quicker and it was very easy to do (only took 2 mins)

BUT

I only did it once I had resigned myself to a full rebuild anyway - and my motor only lasted 6 months after doing it. My motor was already shagged tho - and may not have lasted too long anyway. Turbos were fine however. I don't know about 1.8 bar (26psi) however on std turbos – I would not even push my N1s that hard – I would have thought 1.3 (18psi) was already too high.

The REAL problem is - at std boost even a GTR can feel a bit on the sluggish side – IMHO

Full rebuild is now complete – car running MUCH better with 300awkw :D

hope this helps

lwells Grand Master

lwells

Posted
Posted
Lucien, the turbos should be fine at up to 1 bar.

This isnt like the gts-t's - they dont get as hot as the one single turbo, because there are two of them.

They should be fine but he also should be made aware of all the consequences if one of his turbos is getting a bit tired. 10-15 years of thousands and thousands of RPM takes its toll.

Lucien.

ferni Grand Master

ferni

Posted
Posted

I've been running around 1-1.1bar on my stock 33GTR turbos for 18months or so, it came like that from the previous owner, so who knows how long before that he was running it.

By just removing the restricter you won't get 1 bar, a little under, and if you dont have a full exaust then a little less once again. I'd remove it if i were you. But everything lwells said is right - the turbos could be tired and they could let go, this will just speed up the process of them letting go... If you don't remove the restricter they may last 12 months, if you do remove it they may only last 6months etc... its up to you. The biggest thing to worry about is if they do let go, the exaust wheels getting sucked back into the engine and damaging pistons.... so if you hear a bang, keep your foot to the floor so the exaust wheel gets blown out the exaust :D

pnblight Mentor

pnblight

Posted
Posted

be so carefull with std r32 turbos as there are a time bomb and tho the hp you make will not damage the motor if the ceramic wheel let go under full noise you could very well be needing a full motor rebuild as they tend to through bit of ceramic back into the engine damaging valve and rings etc etc I AM NOT JOKING HERE replace the std turbos ASAP i would put this upgrade before all overs.

ps i have seen three motor damaged like this in the last 18-20 months

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
be so carefull with std r32 turbos as there are a time bomb and tho the hp you make will not damage the motor if the ceramic wheel let go under full noise you could very well be needing a full motor rebuild as they tend to through bit of ceramic back into the engine damaging valve and rings etc etc I AM NOT JOKING HERE replace the std turbos ASAP i would put this upgrade before all overs.

ps i have seen three motor damaged like this in the last 18-20 months

I totaly agree with that statement , i have seen several stuffed engines when one of the turbos lets go .

psybic Proficient

psybic

Posted
Posted

My turbos let go. Running standard boost. Just old.

Exhaust wheel off one came off completley, went and said G'Day to the cat. like it down there... stayed. The other was just damaged since the day I bought it, I think it went down there too. Must be unlucky if they get sucked BACK into an engine, I thought the exhaust gas would typically blow it out.

pnblight Mentor

pnblight

Posted
Posted
My turbos let go. Running standard boost. Just old.

Exhaust wheel off one came off completley, went and said G'Day to the cat. like it down there... stayed. The other was just damaged since the day I bought it, I think it went down there too. Must be unlucky if they get sucked BACK into an engine, I thought the exhaust gas would typically blow it out.

The ones i have seen damage motors seem to happen up high load (high rpm spool)and the wheel more explodes into tiny pieces and ceramic dust, and if you stop and think how much velocity would this ceramic pieces have coming off the wheel doing how many thousand rpm? And i at first didnt think it would but seen to many know to dont it. The pieces damage valves and rings and even bounce around in between the piston and head for a bit, not pretty.Plus the ceramic dust is so abrasive.

I'm just glad mine let go at about 2000rpm on cold motor idling of from the stop lights in the morning on the way to work (tho i didnt think myself lucky at the time tho) found the wheel mostly intact in the exhaust.

BNR Enthusiast

BNR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

From reading this it doesnt sound to safe to up the boost on standard R32 turbos so im not sure if i will do it as i dont want to damage anything. The cars got about 85,000 on it at the moment so im not sure if that effects anything.

I was reading speed and they said its safe to do so im not sure. The only thing they were conserned about was the motor running to lean.

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted
From reading this it doesnt sound to safe to up the boost on standard R32 turbos so im not sure if i will do it as i dont want to damage anything. The cars got about 85,000 on it at the moment so im not sure if that effects anything.

I was reading speed and they said its safe to do so im not sure. The only thing they were conserned about was the motor running to lean.

If you hook out the restrictor buy yourself a cheap (<$100) mechanical bleed valve and you can then set the boost at whatever level you like.

14lb or less is fine for a GT-R. The real reason the restrictor is in the line is to get the car under the 280PS limitation in Japan. Why else do you think they make it so easy? Mine has been running on just over 13lb for a couple of years & is fine.

The stock ECU's run seriously fat on fuel - you won't lean the motor out.

As an aside - don't place too much faith in the boys from Speed magazine. IMHO, their understanding is fairly shallow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...