Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone. (this may be a crappy thead i know) Just thought id post this see if i get any reply's from the best forum on earth. So got this summery sheet from the workshop. Could you plz tell me your opinions on the list.....eg what should be fixed asap etc what you think of compression what items might mean what)

thanx (will leave some of the dumber items off eg.window washers not working correctly etc)

No. #3 cylander burning oil - s plug white

Rocker Gasket leaking

centre tailshaft universal has movement

top of g/box wet with oil

timing belts last done?

coolant/brake fluids nedd replacing

top radiator rubber mount broken

RH top of suspension arm knocking

left rear suspensioin arm was loose

high hydrocarbons on idle - camshafts?

compresion 1-140 2-150 3-125 4-120 5-155 6-120

umm yeh couple of others not worth listing etc

any input appriciated (yes im going 2 get leakdown test done but broke atm) (also how much u reckon to get valves reseated?) (along with fixing all on list)

nothing major there bit concerned bout comp tho but yeh just thought id put it out there

btw heading 2 japan soon land of the gtr....cant wait!

peace all

umm yeh (camshafts apparantly) pods..highflow turbos apparantly...full exhaust umm.. hks intake bits thats roughly it as far as (engine) goes

(car seems to be running really well atm tho....was running there for a while shite but changed plugs and taped coils thing and seems to of made a good difference

running standard boost and has about 50,000 on clock

;) plz dont say rebuild time....i just shat myself

(apart from compression what tell tale signs are there that a rebuild is needed????)

others?

surely its not rebuild time just need valves reseated?

Those compression results are far from great, id steer clear of anything with more than 10psi variance across cylinders. Get a leakdown test and see if it tells you whats breaking inside the engine. The burning oil on cylinder #3 isnt a good sign either.

Cam cover gaskets are normal, most GTR's I see have a dribble of oil from the rear of the cam covers. All the other things just sound like normal wear and tear. As for the high hydrocarbons, we started my car with no cat on and Tomei 260 in/ex cams, and it sent the machine off the scale at idle. EPA might hate you for it though...

Normal wear and tear doesnt sound too bad, they are old cars but engine wise id be putting money aside as I wouldnt be suprised if the engine let go some time soon.

if its all so bad then why the hell didnt the workshop tell me to stear clear instead of saying yeah its good car with minor faults...so i bought it!! dont get me wrong i love my car but if the engine goes in the near future then im gonna be P I S S E D how do i payout on workshop if it does die?

It is very easy to produce a bad result with a compression test not done quite right. Have a leak-down test done before getting too excited.

No. #3 cylander burning oil - s plug white

This doesn't make sense. Burning oil = black oily plug.

Rocker Gasket leaking

No biggy...gaskets relax with age...re-tighten screws

centre tailshaft universal has movement

R32GTR tailshaft does not have a centre universal joint....it has a CV joint and some movement is normal because it is rubber mounted.

top of g/box wet with oil

Almost certainly the shift lever boot has perished. Simple job to check and replace. Boot costs about $30.

timing belts last done?

If you don't have any history on the car, timing belt should be one of the first things on the list....recommend doing the water pump at the same time as well as the idler/tensioner bearings.

coolant/brake fluids nedd replacing

Again, unless you know the cars history, change all fluids (I would do them regardless)

Any loose or suspect suspension parts should be repaired/retightened/replaced as required. Close inspection of brake condition is a also a must.

Not good dude....

If the car had 50 on the clock and has these problems didnt you think this was strange.

The compression tests do not look good at all. The suspension and rubber dammage tells me straight away that this car has done more the 50k.... With out even looking at it....

Drive it like it is now..... Sell it and buy another one..... Next time get a forum member to go with you to check it over... Im sure there are a few in TAS who would help ya out...

All these old RB26s are timebomb (I'd suggest you're naive if you don't agree)

I'd look at a leak down before you decide its rooted

Steve's reply is fairly comprehensive

PS welcome to the world of the GTR time to introduce it to your wallet :rant:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...