Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

After the heavy rains in sydney recently i noticed that the left rear tail light has moisture and a bit of water in it. It seems to be stuck there and have no idea how it got in there as there is no visible gaps.

Its in the indicator/revers light part, under the brake lights. Does anyone know how to get rid of this moisture? Its been trapped in there for a while now and doesnt seem to be going away. A friend of mine suggested drilling a tiny hole in it and park it outside on a hot day until it dries up and filling it up with sealant afterwards, will this work?

I've tried removing the tail light assembly but it won't budge, there were three bolts that appear to be holding it on but it even once removed it wont come off, anyone know how to remove it?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80052-moisture-in-r33-indicator-tail-light/
Share on other sites

the whole brake/indicator/reverse light assembly is one piece, need to undo all the bolts, and then just puuuuuuuuuulll.. its got some really stick sealant :P

ive just had both mine out, and one is back in, if you have any trouble, gimme a yell

the whole brake/indicator/reverse light assembly is one piece, need to undo all the bolts (about 6-7 i believe), and then just puuuuuuuuuulll.. its got some really stick sealant :P

ive just had both mine out, and one is back in, if you have any trouble, gimme a yell

Hey thanks Mitchy.

I only undid 3 bolts so that was the problem, I'll look harder next weekend for the other bolts.

And yeah it looks like its sealed with a ton of black sticky tar or something, hope that wont be a problem

Cheers

I have the same problem on the right side. Have tried getting the assembly off by removing the nuts/bolts with no luck. will have to use a hammer next time i think. Let us know how you go with it, i might have another look this weekend

take off the skyline thing in between. UNdo all the Bolts. Then use a hair dryer on the seals to loosen them then pull it off. Then what i did was use the hairdryer to dry all the water from inside the indicator till it was perfect. Then put it back in with some sort of sealant so water doesnt get back in :cheers:

  • 1 month later...

if any of you guys want, ill take some detailed, step by step pictures of how i did it on the weekend.

i took off the entire rear end pretty much, lights, covers off ther lights, rear bar, skyline middle piece, wing, and bootlid if anyone wants the DIY for that.

That'll be great for future reference

Just a bit of an update, I got rid of the moisture finally. I had another go at removing the tail light myself but I wasn't game enough in the end.

I borrowed my sister's hair dryer and gave it a good blasting. Once the plastic gets really hot, I let it cool down then start again, working my way from left to right. The moisture is all gone now :cheers:

yeah my R32 4dr have the same problem but it seem to go away after a sunny day by itself and my car is parked outside a lot....

also as a side note i noticed that the moisture is in between the outside plastic and inside plastic so didnt bother to drill holes cos the moisture will not effect the globes and wiring.... so no danger really, only aesthetics

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...