Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I wanna rebuild my blown engine. Like everyone, I want something good but keep it low cost as possible.

I was thinking of getting a T78 33D Turbo (around 350kw).

Besides the forged pistons, what other stuff are a 'Necessity' to handle such power.

Those with knowledge in this department, please give me a list of what I am looking at, and how much each part will cost.

Just trying to get an overall view of what i need and $$$ it will cost. If its gonna go above my desired budget, i might have to settle for a hi-flowed turbo, and nothing too serious in the engine.

Thanks a lot.

Husnu (Hus).

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

I know someone who has the whole T78 33D Kit (External Wastegate, Exhaust Manifold, Dump Pipe + a few other piping with it). It will cost me around 3K mark, which is a bargain.

Putting those costs aside - i wouldnt want to spend more than 5K on the engine. (Am I living in La La Land?)

Do not use a T78 to make 350kw. This turbo is way too laggy and you'll have a horrible power band for only 350kw.

Rough estimate using all new Tomei stuff:

Prices USD$

Pistons 1,400

Rods 1,300

260° Cams w/pullies 850

555cc Injectors 780

1.2mm Headgasket 280

Apexi Power FC 1,200

Then you still have to add labor.

What mods does your car currently have?

are you taking the motor out yourself Hus?

if you do and can simply send it off to get machined then you should be able to get it rebuilt for less than 5K...

pistons ($1200)

rods (GTR Rods? $400)

bearings (??? maybe $200?)

water pump ($120?)

timing belt ($60?)

head gasket ($200)

head studs ($40???)

welsh plugs (???)

machining (depending on what you want/need basic tidy up probably cost $2000)

and of course anything else I have forgotten as I am not a mechanic

and a clutch to hold 350kw

Car currently has HKS FMIC, Rajab Racing Custom Clutch, HKS Hypermax Coilovers, 3" Kakimoto Turbo Back Exhaust, Hi-Flowed Turbo, Arnage LSD Diff.

Ok, put aside 350kw - say the T78 will hit 450-500kw - would i still need the same parts as what i was going for a 350kw - or extra parts?

So for 6K (excluding turbo kit) - i wont be able to do much?

Car currently has HKS FMIC, Rajab Racing Custom Clutch, HKS Hypermax Coilovers, 3" Kakimoto Turbo Back Exhaust, Hi-Flowed Turbo, Arnage LSD Diff.

Ok, put aside 350kw - say the T78 will hit 450-500kw - would i still need the same parts as what i was going for a 350kw - or extra parts?

So for 6K (excluding turbo kit) - i wont be able to do much?

still need cams ecu etc i think plus work and gaskets....i dont think 6k is enough..

ok.., throw away the idea of T78

I want to build an engine to suit 300kw at the wheels.

Put aside the turbo kit (I may go for a T67 25G).

Can i get a descent built engine for 6k? Or should i just buy a 2nd hand engine and drive with a 160kw skyline :)

If you wanna make 300kw go with a TD06 L2 20G or a GT3037. You might be able to make this on stock internals. You'll still need an ecu, injectors, fuel pump, and a boost controller. Cams would be a good idea too. I think the stock headgasket is fairly strong on an rb25.

Remember 6k will get you a half cut... So you could sell off the trans and other bits then use the brakes and sell the intercooler... By the time you buy and sell stuff you will have like 2g's left over to spend on cams, pfc & fuel pump..... Thats what id do with 6 g's...

And of course youll get a few bucks for the blown motor

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...