Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, well after trial and error and working out mine, here is the stereo wiring for an R33. May even apply to R32 or R34 but not positive. To me its worth doing your own stereo install - not very difficult - depends whether you want to spend 1 hr for free or pay somebody else $50 to do it. It is easy (esp if u don't have to work out this).

The slashed ones are the stripey ones in the two colours.

Green/red - Power Antenna up/down

Front Right Speaker: Brown + black/red

Front Left Speaker : Blue + black/white

Rear Left Speaker : Green + black/yellow

Rear Right Speaker : Orange + purple/black

Accessories (ignition on) : Blue/yellow

+12v from battery : Red/white

Blue/green - edit: Illumination wire - dims the face unit when lights on. thanx guys below

Generally just wired the black from the new stereo to the body via screw.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8043-stereo-wiring-for-r33/
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
Thanks man, you just solved the issue of me not being able to use my antenna

No worries... Depends on the face unit - some don't have automatic aerial control. You could always rig up your own switch -its basically apply 12v for up, apply 12v again for down.

the tool: Illumination wire? wouldn't that be just taken care of with the normal voltage in to the factory unit? or you mean rigged up to the lights so when the headlights are on the face unit lights up? I could make use of that wire :D

predator666

Actually when the headlights come on the headunit dims as it appears brighter at night. By dimming it will not distract your vision (so they say :) ).

Blue/green - not exactly sure. Could be ground??

Be careful, as when it is metered out it does appear as a ground, but it can be your illumination wire, as the tool stated. I had the miss pleasure of doing this and didn't realize ( head unit worked perfectly) till my friend told me his dash and rear night lights didn't light up. Nothing serious, just kept on blowing the dash fuse. Reconnected head unit's black wire to body and problem

solved.

Thanks for this info.

I assume, through my experience, that "black/red, black/white,

black/yellow and purple/black" are the -ve wires for each speaker?

I am in two minds weather to replace my original unit. It is a factory fitted Alpine double din (two piece) unit. The top unit is you normal (9 yr old) tape/radio with a cd changer. The bottom unit (have no compartment, wich could have come in hand to mount my wolf3d display) is a full graphic eq. (also 9 yr old) with various digital graphs. These are origanal factory optioned as the have inscribed on them, "Alpine Nissfit", even the speakers (which have recently been replaced due to old age :( and too much bass :P ) have this logo. The unit also has a keycard sized remote that has a special compartment in the center consile (sp?). Everything is working, but i would like to get more power to my new speakers and am not sure if it has low-level outputs (i am not too keen on using hi-level inputs on an amp.)

Any opinions/suggestions/knowledge would be great.

This is basically the main ones for a single DIN unit - not for double DIN. Don't know much about them. I did notice a bunch of wires below unused in mine - I assume they are for the double DIN or something else?

My speakers (well the ones i still have till i get some kick ass ones) are Clarion, but they sure are the lowest of the lowest of the range! as i know some clarion stuff can be pretty decent. Not sure whether thats the same with the standard Alpine unit, or it actually is a good unit and not "factory fit" cheap job.

Al: Does the factory Alpine unit have separate line outs or are you talking about just wiring the speaker connections up the amp?

Al: Does the factory Alpine unit have separate line outs or are you talking about just wiring the speaker connections up the amp?

I am not sure, as i have not yet bothered to remove the head unit and eq. to check. I hope it does as this would make things so much easier.

  • 7 months later...

Hi all,

For those of you wanting to install an amp in the boot the aerial up wire is indeed green with a red stripe (r33) and can be spliced into from a group of five wires about 15cm to the left of the boot lock.

Just thought i'd drop this trivia in here so the search will pick it up.

Cheers

Phil

Al: u can buy alpine rca convertors, the change ur speaker signal into an RCA signal, and modify the voltage and all the other jazz to make it work properly, my did this when he had his landcruizer and it sounded quite good, there about 80 bucks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...