Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, i have a Blitz DSBC boost controller and from my understanding it has an extra plug for a Blitz Map Analyzer. Now what i am trying to figure out is if i could hook up a generic GM MAP sensor to it to get the Map function to work on the boost controller. I am under the impression that i will then be able to select the PSI i want to run w/o fooling around w/ gains and ratios. I am not asking for a complete translation, maybe just the graphs and anything that deals w/ the pressure range and or voltage range, maybe anything dealing with the input output, etc. Thanks in advance!

PDF: http://www.blitz.co.jp/products/boost-map-ana.pdf

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80492-quick-translation-pls/
Share on other sites

hey dude,

below is the translation:

boost up analyser can be connected to dual-SBC, dual-SBC specSR, SBC i-D(II, III included), and sbc-dc in order to control boost from total of 10 varients of programming settings which are vehicle speed, engine revs, voltage (throttle position sensor or air/fuel ratio sensor[?]) which are 2 dimensional maps, or vehicle speed & engine revs, engine revs & voltage, and voltage & vehicle speed which are 3 dimensional maps and 9 map+overtake. It is possible to achieve the desired boost level by controlling boost. The 10 varients of programming can be changed with one switch which can be switched according to different stages.

For example:

MAP1: vehicle speed 2 dimensional

vehicle speed 0km/h~ 50km/h~ 100km/h~

boost level setting 0.8kg/F 1.2kg/F 1.5kg/F

At the start of 0-400m to prevent wheelspin the boost level is 0.8kg/F until 50km/h then 1.2kg/F for 50km/h~ and 1.5kg/F for 100km/h~, this setting may bring out the optimum performance.

MAP9: vehicle speed & voltage (from throttle position sensor) 3 dimensional

acceleratorvehicle speed 0km/h~ 50km/h~ 150km/h~ 200km/h~

0~50% 0.8kg/F 0.8kg/F 0.8kg/F 0.8kg/F

50~90% 1.0kg/F 1.2kg/F 1.5kg/F 1.2kg/F

90~100% 1.0kg/F 1.5kg/F 1.8kg/F 1.5kg/F

When the accelerator is 0~50%, it is for fuel economy driving so at any speed the boost level remains the same but in a battle when the accelerator is maxed at 150km/h~over then the boost is able to be set at 1.8kg/F keeping in mind full acceleration.

MAP chart

MAP1 vehicle speed A

MAP2 vehicle speed B

MAP3 vehicle speed & engine revs

MAP4 engine revs A

MAP5 engine revs B

MAP6 engine revs & voltage

MAP7 voltage A

MAP8 voltage B

MAP9 voltage & vehicle speed

MAP0 overtake

there maybe few bits where the translation is a bit iffy... like voltage? im not sure if it is the right english term but hope this helps... and if anyone can correct few bits here and there it should be all good....

cheers

masahiro

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...