Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i was installing a sub and amp today

i think i did everything right.

power cable earth cable etc etc.

the amps got power and all but no sound is coming out.

seems like the amps dead

i checked the wiring on the remote line and it seems to be ok.

what could the problem be??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80583-the-amps-got-power-but-no-sound/
Share on other sites

real stupid thing but if it a DVC sub make sure both your coils are wired the right way(both neg-neg pos-pos). I know it's a really dumb thing to say but i've seen it happen in the past. save that does your head unit have switchable rca jacks? some are switchable for amp out/aux in.

How do you know the amp is on? I'm assuming the light is on.

You should check the remote line with a test light to make sure current is running through it, although if the amp has a light this won't be an issue 'cos if it's on the light will be on.

If there is no light then a quick way of testing is shorting the power and the remote (so your power cable runs to your power on the amp, then just get a small wire and short the remote and power terminals on the amp).

Check the fade and balance on your head unit to make sure it's actually giving output to the amp. Check where you plugged the RCAs into the head unit to make sure you've used the correct output. If for example your headunit has a sub woofer output and you haven't enabled the sub then nothing will be outputted from those RCAs.

Check you've plugged the RCAs into the proper input on the amp, some can have more than one input so make sure if you've got more than one that the speakers/sub are/is actually plugged into the same channel.

Finally if you're bridging, enable the bridge mode if your amp has a button for it. Otherwise if you're not bridging make sure the bridge mode is off, if your amp has a button for it.

Check the wires on your amp to your speakers are correctly wired to the speaker, so the positive goes to positive and the negative goes to negative. Also make sure it's plugged into the proper wiring bank - sometimes it can get confusing there.

Good luck. Let us know how you go.

hm..

i may have found the problem

seems like the RCA output needs to be turned on??

but i dunno how to turn it on

cant find anything from the HU that seems to control it

those damn japanese HU

i think i might as well get a new HU

try turning it off, and holding each button down for a few seconds as a start. pioneers at least have a settings menu that you access by turning off and holding a specific button for a few secs. That's if you dont really want to buy a new HU anyway :(

i had the same prob with mine ... got the shits really bad ... i thought i f****d something but after a quick read through all of my manuals i solved the prob!!!

find out what h/u you have 1st then do a google search to see if there is support befor eyou toss it for a new one!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...