Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Dont forget however that 200rwkw in an s15 6 speed feels a shitload faster than in an r33!

If your thinking about one and dont need the extra space of the Skyline id definatly go for it! Aslong as its not an s14, s14a and s15s are the better looking cars.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80647-200sx-question/#findComment-1467304
Share on other sites

I'd put it in the 180rwkW region with those mods, at around 1bar.

The injectors and pump won't be maxed out, but they'll be close. For safety's sake you'd get a new pump and injectors before trying to screw out any more power.

The T28 will clear 200rwkW with cams.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80647-200sx-question/#findComment-1468623
Share on other sites

Aussie S15 T28's all ball bearing? This means with support mods they can hold say 17 psi safely?

I thought the JDM s15s were the ball bearing ones. Like the spec Rs or something. Have a look a nissan silvia they have a heap of dyno threads.

About your question i reckon what everyone else has said around 180- 200rwkw.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80647-200sx-question/#findComment-1468695
Share on other sites

Aussie S15 T28's all ball bearing?

No, they're not.

I believe the consensus is that the JDM S15s are all BB, but its pot luck as to whether the Australian ones are or not. Silvia owners have compared build dates, VIN numbers, part numbers for the turbo, and there's nothing they can see that differentiates between them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80647-200sx-question/#findComment-1470653
Share on other sites

Exhaust housings... as im on NS.com all the time this is where i got that from.

B/B units have a 6 bolt exhaust housing while the non b/b turbos have 4? Maybe 5.

Not 100% sure on the non b/b units but they dont have as many bolts in the exhaust housings, this as well as a slight difference in the part number does show Aus Spec s15s have non b/b units!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80647-200sx-question/#findComment-1470660
Share on other sites

Well yes, if you look at them you can tell the difference.

But if you're in the market for buying one you won't be able to tell from the build date or VIN number.

From the people I've spoken to on SilNSW and NSCC the part numbers for Au S15 BB and non BB T28s are identical (hence why a VIN number search is fruitless).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80647-200sx-question/#findComment-1470691
Share on other sites

first of all - which 200sx you talking about?

those mods on an S14 or S14A will get about 180rwkw.

same mods on the S15's tend to get closer to 190rwkw.

my series 1 S14 with 1 bar boost, fmic, SAFC pulled 175rwkw.

ran a lazy 13.8 with heavy 17 inch wheels.

A mate with an S15 and 193rwkw using PFC and 17 psi ran 12.9 on the same night.

on the topic of BB turbo's and shit.

it doesn't mean anything for it to be AUS or JAP spec.

some had Ball Bearing and some didn't.

only way to tell is from the GARRETT part numbers on the stamp which is on a plate on the turbo between the front and rear wheels.

466541 = ball bearing

466543 = bush bearing

the second part of the numbers mean

-001 = S14 turbo (no splitter between wastegate and turbine exit)

-002 = S15 turbo (splitter between wastegate and turbine exit)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80647-200sx-question/#findComment-1470738
Share on other sites

Scathing -

yeh that would be Brentons right?

I think he had in the region of 225 rwkw with a lot of other mods apart from the turbo.

the original question was using "highish boost"

which doesn't mean much really.

So to "me", the stock setup runing 7psi of boost, "highish" would be double and a little more..

so I'd say that 17psi is highish for a stock turbo.

The example I gave of my mate that ran the 12.9 was using 17.5 psi boost on his stock S15 turbo.

Scathing, if you are the same scathing on other forums, then you'll know Dale.

and I think that night you were hitting 14 flat in the tree fiddy... if that is you..

his other mods at the time were.

stock dump, then 3 inch back.

hyperflow intercooler with silicon hosing.

AVCR

GFB hybrid bov

17x7.5 rims with Dunlop DJ-01's

Power FC

stock clutch

stock pump

stock injectors

stock fuel pressure.

stock turbo... etc

I don't think the difference between the BB and non BB is not so much power but the driveability.

I would "ASSUME" that the BB turbo would build boost at a faster rate.

I guess they have other bonuses like higher tolerances to extra boost maybe but I can't say from experience.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80647-200sx-question/#findComment-1472208
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...