Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What are the differences?

***

from HPI #51, "RB26 Evolution"

Unbeknownst to most is the differences between R32 and R33 GT-R turbochargers. There are differences no so much in the exterior housings, but in the compressor wheels and in turn the dump pipes, which allow a stock-turbo R33 with bolt-on mods to make significantly more power than its R32 equivalent.

Both of these versions carry the handicap of ceramin turbine wheels though. Whereas 1.2-1.3bar of boost pressure on the R34 turbochargers is a 'gimme', the wise tuner keeps the boost under 1.1bar on the early models and leaves it at that.

***

It seems that no-one actually knows specifics...

but I hope this helps a little

***

from HPI #51, "RB26 Evolution"  

Unbeknownst to most is the differences between R32 and R33 GT-R turbochargers. There are differences no so much in the exterior housings, but in the compressor wheels and in turn the dump pipes, which allow a stock-turbo R33 with bolt-on mods to make significantly more power than its R32 equivalent.

Both of these versions carry the handicap of ceramin turbine wheels though. Whereas 1.2-1.3bar of boost pressure on the R34 turbochargers is a 'gimme', the wise tuner keeps the boost under 1.1bar on the early models and leaves it at that.

***

It seems that no-one actually knows specifics...

but I hope this helps a little

do not run 1.2 to 1.3 on r34 turbos they go bang to, trust me i know

yeah say bye bye to ceramin no matter what model R it is , it will save you money in the end

I think it will be fine to use R32 and R33 GTR turbos together. If there are any differences in compressor wheels they would be very minor. I'm still unconvinced though that there are any differences at all. The "GT-R Owners Book" I bought from Japan shows the difference between all factory turbos. From the specs listed there is NO difference. Yes the dumps are different though.

That particular article in HPI #51 has so many errors in it. Almost all of the information about the R34 motor is completely wrong. Other articles lately have had wrong information too. Unfortunately, you can't believe everything that you read in a magazine.

That particular article in HPI #51 has so many errors in it.  Almost all of the information about the R34 motor is completely wrong.  Other articles lately have had wrong information too.  Unfortunately, you can't believe everything that you read in a magazine.

Gary could you please elaborate on your post? :confused: I have little love for HPI on the whole, and would love to have the story set straight.

Did you respray it after you imported it or sumthing?

Without making disparaging comments about import brokers, suffice to say the description of the car was missing quite a few important (and obvious) details. I don't mind sharing, so if you are interested in hearing more, beam over a PM :P

Gary could you please elaborate on your post? :confused: I have little love for HPI on the whole, and would love to have the story set straight.

Well here are a few things they said about the R34:

1. "R34 turbos are a spitting image of an R33 GTR N1 turbo" - WRONG

They are completely different. Different housings and different wheels.

2. "R34 GTR cams have alterted duration and lift" - WRONG

The cam duration and lift are the same for all GTR's. The difference in the R34 cams is the "lobe centre angle" (cam timing). Basically the R34 cams are like having R32/33 cams with cam gears set at 4 deg advanced intake and 4 deg retarded exhaust.

3. "R34 cams won't fit in an R32/33 head" - WRONG

They sure do. There are many people that have done it. The difference is in the connection to the crank angle sensor. The R34 CAS will not fit into R32/33 cams or vise versa.

4. "R34's have a completely recast head"

I don't think so. There may be some minor changes though. I know SK said they have different squish zones. Maybe someone who has properly compared the two can say.

5. "R34 blocks have extra ribbing like N1 blocks to avoid cracking"

My understanding is that N1 blocks are actually made from a different material to provide the extra strength. I have a photo with a comparison of the standard block (05U), N1 block (24U) and the Group A block. It's very hard to see any differences. If only I could read japanese better, then I would know. I'd like to see where the extra ribbing is that they talk about. As for the R34 block they are still stamped with 05U and I don't think they are any different. Plus my tuner has seen them crack before. Again if someone has compared the two properly I'd like to know.

It's just annoying when rumours spread and then end up in magazines.

Gary,

Does that GT-R handbook list the stats for the R34 N1 GT-R turbo? If it does, and you don't mind, can you post up all the dimensions? Just trying to compare to other options as per this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=80624

Cheers,

Lucien.

I have a photo with a comparison of the standard block (05U), N1 block (24U) and the Group A block. As for the R34 block they are still stamped with 05U and I don't think they are any different.

Only saying wat i read...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...