Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have just completed another round of upgrades on my 96 R33 GTR Vspec and have the follow parts to remove from my garage:-

Standard Front and Rear Brembo Rotors - SOLD

Standard GTR oil pump, not a mark on it - SOLD

Standard GTR Dump Pipes, with heat shields - $25

Standard GTR Front pipes - $25

Standard GTR Cat back exhaust - $100

Standard GTR Clutch, pull type, incl flywheel, plenty of meat left on it - SOLD

Standard GTR Radiator, VGC - SOLD

Clutch Slave cylinder and rubber clutch line, no leaks - SOLD

Standard Vspec GTRs shock and springs, F&R - SOLD

GTR sump, all cleaned, have got all the front diff aswell if required, in pieces - $100

Cusco Tension rod, brand new, never used, won't clear the new sump (will also fit R32 GTR and GTS 4) - SOLD

Cusco Brake cylinder stopper, used for 5 months - SOLD

Standard GTR engine and Gearbox mounts, vgc - SOLD

Standard Nissan Brake Pads F & R for Brembos 60-70% meat left (cost a small fortune for compliance. :) ) - SOLD

Some hard race pads for front Brembos 95% meat left, not sure on Brand/type but they stop extremely well once there is a bit of heat into them - SOLD

Standard GTR caster rods, bushes are good - $50

I think thats everything. I am in Brisbane and am open to any reasonable offers.

Cheers

Some of the requested pics

post-1841-1143717034.jpg

post-1841-1143717153.jpg

post-1841-1143717247.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80713-33-gtr-parts/
Share on other sites

J-L, are the tension rods the adjustable type? If so I'll take them and pay postage.

Edit: just looking at the pics. Tension rod is not what I expected as I was thinking of castor rods, commonly called tension rods. Fill me in on this item please.

Cheers

Geoff

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80713-33-gtr-parts/#findComment-1473509
Share on other sites

Hi Geoff,

The tension rod is just a brace that goes between the two castor rods, where the castor rods attach to the chassis. Supposed to help stiffen this area to help keep the suspension geometry true during heavy corner loading.....

And it would have looked really pretty sitting in between the Cusco caster rods and Trust sump extension and trust front diff cover :D Oh well, the sump got in the way so it wasn't to be.....

EDIT: This was cut out of Chiba_Osaka_Boy's thread:-

Tension Rod Bars

Stabilizes alignment and bracket rigidity. Links the brackets and reinforces the tension rod mount area. It is made of 22mm steel. It is bolt on and you turn buckle allows pipe tension adjustment.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80713-33-gtr-parts/#findComment-1475027
Share on other sites

OK cheers mate. I'll pass on the tension rod, but I will take all the brake pads if the price includes delivery. Always handy to have spares at the track if a set collapse and it's cheaper than new discs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80713-33-gtr-parts/#findComment-1475397
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...