Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey im having trouble with shuddering brakes. I had the 4 original ones machined for RWC and then after one nite out after hard braking they began to shudder. After this i bought a set of brand new (undrilled) stock front discs as they were very cheap, thinking it would solve my problem. And it did for awhile but i still notice a very slight amount of shudder at times normally only when going quite slow. I've had my original discs re-machined since and thinking to try them again. What else could be causing this shudder? Can it be the pads wearing the discs badly? They are stock pads.. Any ideas?

Thanks guys,

Deren

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80768-shuddering-brakes-on-gtr/
Share on other sites

At a guess I'd say that you completed one of your big stops and left your foot on the brake at a light. Maybe even more than once.

This allows the pad material to propagate through the disc upsetting the grain structure and the wear characteristics.

Alternatively it can cause a differential cooling rate allowing some areas of the disc to cool at a rate wherby cementite forms, which a form of steel that is tougher and more resistant to wear. What then happens is some parts wear faster than others and you get pedal shudder.

Try the originals and see how it goes. It may not be too bad.

Just remember to have time to run a cooldown after hard braking periods and don't use the handbrake to park if the brakes are still really hot. If you are doing it on the street it's only a matter of time before something goes wrong, so come to the racetrack with us and go fast responsibly.

whenever i do machining i either replace the pads or re-surface them on a huge ass drop saw grinding disc and file the edges so they are not sharp to make sure they dont squeel

Could be the problem if ur pads are like bendix ultimates or a hard make up of pad they would still feel yucky

my 2c.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
×
×
  • Create New...