Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Edit 25/8/05: Pics added, see post 15

EDIT 15/8/05: Got the car back 12/11/05 - all is well. See post 12 for details.

EDIT 5/8/06: Car booked in at DMD image - will post final result when I get it back next week.

Well it had to happen, finally pranged the skyline.

More pissed off that I was doing something stupid at the time which resulted in me nudging a pole on a trafic island- I got what I deserved (as some kindly passing motorist informed me).

I actually got off easy - front bumper is rooted, so is the bolt on metal bumper underneath and there is a small ding in the bonnet. No lights, radiators or frame were touched.

So now I've got a good excuse to buy a aftermarket front bar!

Can anyone give me the names of bodywork shops that, can supply aftermarket bumpers and do good quality painting / fitting? I'm thinking of getting a 400r front bar or one of those UAS front bars, any suggestions.

Also if anyone knows of a good smash repairer in briz that can repair dings without painting could you please let me know, it would be greatly appreciated.

Finally if anyone is wrecking a S1 R33 GTST, I'll take the metal bumper that bolts to the frame.

The car is fully insured, but I think this will be eaiser / cheaper to fix myself.

Any responses would be greatly appreciated, it is so depressing seeing my pride and joy looking like a drift pig.

:O:(:):(:):(:D:(

Edited by JCMarshall_Law
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80988-pranged-the-line-fixed-now/
Share on other sites

I feel for you Patrick..I run up the ass of a Commodore 2 weeks ago. The line is in getting fixed now, I took mine to Matts Custom Paint Shop at Lawnton, I should get it back either tomorrow or Monday. I am just getting standard bumper, but thats cause the insurance company is tight as.

Good luck bud

Cheers

Chris

Call Doan at DMD for a front bar, they have heaps...  

Got mine from there when I had a pole incident last year, very solid front bar...

:werd: Did the exact same thing last year...Doan helped me out heaps and his work was top qual. For fiberglass the bar is amazingly strong!

Well the car was droped off at DMD image at Rocklea this morning.

Thanks heaps to all those who replied to this thread - It was a great help. I got quotes from Camerons, DMD and Shipstone at Wilston. I went with DMD because they had everything in stock already and I could just say "I want that, and that, oh, oh, that looks good, I'll take that".

If it was an insurance job I would have gone with shipstone because they would prolly do the best job - all new standard parts from nissan. Only problem, the quote was $3800!!! Around $2500 more than DMD and Cameron's.

I'm getting a GTR style bar and Grill and the bonnet needs to be re-sprayed. I really hope they do a good job, I really hate sh1t looking bodykits.

Should be done by Wednesday, I'll post up the final result.

Got the car back from DMD image at Rocklea, overall I'm happy with the outcome (except for the depleted bank account)

My thoughts:

- They did a vey good job matching the factory colour (metalic dark grey / black).

- Respray on the bonnet is very good, unless you know what your looking for you would never know.

- The bar / grill (R33 GTR style) looks good and fits well, although it scratched very eaisly - prolly because of soft paint still. Paint and finish on that is good as well. Quite sturdy for a fibreglass bar. Included all the mesh on the openings which was a good supprise - looks very cool.

- They did not do a great job on refitting the guard liners - a few zip ties were used there. But no big deal I did know (and they did tell me) the factory liners would not match up to the new bar perfectly.

- They did not use the best quality indicators but they look fine. I was led to believe they were using factory GTR indicators.

- The communication and organisation was not that great, but I can't really complain my car got finished pretty much on time.

- One thing I was a bit pissed off about was the quote I was given when I first took the car in. I thought Iasked for a quote to fix the front end damage and replace the bar with a GTR bumper. I was quoted $300 for the bonnet and $850 for the bumper. When I went to drop the car off, I find out this did not include the the reo (extra $130) and Grill (extra $120). So when you get a quote make sure you know what that includes.

- Only other gripe - they don't accept EFTPOS or Credit card! I was only informed an hour before I was supposed to pick up the car! Finding $1400 cash on short notice was not that easy.

Like I said, overall I'm happy, the car looks sweet. So I would recommend DMD - just make sure you spell out what you want and make sure you know what they are giving you.

Also, talk with Doan (owner) directly - it will hopefully save a lot of confusion.

I'll add pics when I get them.

Edited by JCMarshall_Law

I attached a few pics of the new front end, it looks sweet, IMO.

Although, I'm a bit pissed off with a couple of things. I'm not just randomly going off to give DMD a bad name, that is definately not my intention, I still think DMD did a great job on the bar and the bonnet. I have talked to Doan and he said he would make sure he talked to the employee who did the work so it does not happen again. I will not chase the issue further and I have already fixed the problems myself.

Basically the the problem is the indicators and how they were installed. For a start they are cheap trailer indicators and look like it (see pics). The real problem started when my indicators stopped working completly about 4 days after I got the car back. I found that the fuse had blown, so I got to work pullng apart the front indicator wiring - this is what I found:

The indicators were screwed onto the mesh with backing made of old fiberglass pieces obviously cut up with side cutters. The rubber seals were installed incorrectly so the indicators would have filled with water in the next rain. All of the wiring was twisted together!!! Including the connection to the indicators.

On one side they had obviously cut the wiring in the wrong place so they just twisted the wires back together in one big bundle and taped up with 1000 mile a hour tape, they could not even use electrical tape - I can't believe it did not short out sooner. In fact everything was done with 1000 mile a hour tape.

So I spent a bit of time pulling it all apart, soildering it together, making proper mounting, and properly insulating everything. Now it works.

I did not expect to have to fix the work of a professional workshop.

Anyway, I'm over it, just make sure you drill them on the wiring if you get work done there.

PS: someone had also got a bit excited with the gas ax when they cut the reo and cut through a support they should not have, but I'll stop bitching now, it still works fine.

post-13881-1124923578.jpg

post-13881-1124923591.jpg

post-13881-1124923606.jpg

post-13881-1124923618.jpg

When I 1st got my old GTST it had dodgy indicators on the GTR style front bar too. I ended up getting some genuine ones which look the goods but are worth a fortune. I really like the GTR front bar, not that I am biased, nice work!

Nothing wrong with trailer indicators, that's what I got. DOH!!!

So was it 2 pak or acrylic, the respray?

Don't know, fogot to ask. Is there a way to tell?

I'm pretty sure they bake their resprays because a mate got a new grill painted and fitted in one day, so I guess it was 2-pac.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...